Who has sharp eyes

davesnow

Crabby Old Geezer
Can anyone tell me what the words say beneath these dials? My eyesight isn't what it used to be.



Thanks
 
Left to right: Lubricating oil pressure, fuel oil pressure, water temperature, battery ammeter. I think the top one says control air gauge, but I'm not 100% on that.
 
I zoomed in on top gauge
That coupler below gauge looks like a air coupler
I'm also 99% sure it reads control air gauge
 
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Just curious Dave, or anyone else familiar with US operations really; do crews really follow that big instruction up there? I often see (on Youtube) engines idling for extended periods of time be it waiting in the hole or just hanging around the yard.
 
Just curious Dave, or anyone else familiar with US operations really; do crews really follow that big instruction up there? I often see (on Youtube) engines idling for extended periods of time be it waiting in the hole or just hanging around the yard.

That would depend on why that instruction is there. This is not typical of every locomotive and a locomotive (like you observed on youtube) may idle for long periods of time for many different reasons. Since we don't know anything about whatever locomotive this image was taken from in the scope of this thread, there isn't an answer.
 
Not sure about the US but in SA the instruction was to save fuel , to prevent 'glazing' of the cylinders and to stop panelbath filter oil pullover ( oil all over the roof ) - all caused by excessive idling for long periods.
The period might differ in different countries but the wear and tear on series starter motors etc. from repeated starting had a bearing on the idling period allowed too.
Some loco's would be left unattended to idle for hours on end while waiting to work before this instruction was implemented.
 
Not sure about the US but in SA the instruction was to save fuel , to prevent 'glazing' of the cylinders and to stop panelbath filter oil pullover ( oil all over the roof ) - all caused by excessive idling for long periods.
The period might differ in different countries but the wear and tear on series starter motors etc. from repeated starting had a bearing on the idling period allowed too.
Some loco's would be left unattended to idle for hours on end while waiting to work before this instruction was implemented.

In the colder climates, locomotives are usually left idling to keep the fuel lines and engine block warm. Diesel fuel is thick and starting a cold engine can be very difficult so rather than struggle with the startup, the crew will leave the engine running. Some locomotives have an engine warmer which is powered via an electric outlet. This keeps the engine block warm and allows the engine to be turned off, but warm an toasty and ready to be started.

Back to the original topic, I was too late to the show... The upper right dial though appears to be some kind of odometer. The other dials look just as you've pointed out, Dave.

John
 
@JCitron, don't forget to add engine coolant into reasons why the locomotive is left idling. 300+ gallons of frozen water will easily destroy the block. Upper right gauge is an engine hours counter (I assume its for the engine, it was in all the trucks I've driven that had one).

Sidebar: does anyone know what the control air is for? I think I read somewhere that some early locomotives used air for MU control, but that information is long gone in my head. Of course, I suppose we need to know the locomotive type before that can be answered.
 
Hi everybody.
With regard to the notice that the engine should not be left idling for more than 10 minutes I would agree with the comment/posting that this is to prevent "cylinder glazing"

It is a problem often encountered with yard shunting vehicles in the British road haulage industry (known as the trucking industry in the United States). Vehicles used for shunting trailers around large warehousing sites always have to be left with their engines idling when trailers are being dropped or hooked up To maintain or build up the air pressure in the trailer reservoirs. Even when moving around the sites speed restrictions mean that the engines rarely rev above 1500 rpm.

If glazing does build up in the cylinders inefficient diesel fuel ignition takes place causing large amounts of smoke to be admitted from the vehicle exhausts which can be carcinogenic (cancer-causing) to persons in the vicinity. Depot shunter drivers are therefore often instructed to bring engine revs up above 3000 rpm at least every 10 minutes or so for a period of three minutes or more to prevent cylinder glazing.

The notice in the cab of the rail power unit could therefore indicate that it is solely used for shunting at a railhead yard. As for what the notice states on the gauge, I have worn glasses all my adult life and therefore would not have been able to read that at the age of 21, least of all at the age of 71.

I will therefore stand aside to allow much younger forum members to decipher that notice (LOL)

Bill
 
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be careful using information from the diesel shop and as you probably know wikipedia. I have found on more than one occasion for the information at thedieselshop.us to be incorrect.
 
be careful using information from the diesel shop and as you probably know wikipedia. I have found on more than one occasion for the information at thedieselshop.us to be incorrect.

Norfolksouthern 37. I do not know if you are refering to my posting above, but the information i posted was given from my own knowledge and experience working in industrial safety mostly in the British road haulage industry. I would not know what diesel shop was or is.
Bill
 
No it had nothing to do with your post. It had to do with using information from unreliable sources.

IS there, in fact, any source on the web that has reliable information about locomotives, rolling stock, and the railroad industry in general, outside of "Railway Age" magazine? I would like to know myself Justin. I'd sure add that site to my favorites!

Thanks

Dave
 
hehe me too Dave. I just tell people to do their homework, don't trust any websites at their word. I have found out too many times that it can get you the wrong information. Official documentation is always the best way.
 
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