Railroad Truss Bridge

[Klinger]

I have an old steel Truss bridge. I believe that it was built for S scale, no idea if its scratch built or mass produced. Anyway, Its got lots of surface rust that needs to be cleaned off, and its painted green. I'm going to take a good old wire brush to it to clean up the rust, and then I wanted to repaint it into a realistic color.

I was wondering what color would look realistic for a railroad truss bridge. The most common colors I have seen are silver, black, and a walthers plastic kit is sort of a grey color.

The bridge will ultimately be used on our club modular layout, as a modular, and as easy access in and out of the layout. We do HO, so the larger scale of the bridge will be perfect for double track HO, and more then strong enough to support even our heaviest locomotives.

Anyway, what color would be realistic? Also, what sort of decking should be used? I want it to look like a realistic bridge, so what is the easiest way to lay down a bridge deck that flex track could be laid over, or should I try and buy actual bridge track

My goal is to finish in about a month with the most realistic bridge possible, and have it look very good.

 

[transitguard]

Can we get some pictures?

 

[JRT]

You can use rusty brown or rusty orange.

 

[Klinger]

 

[transitguard]

Thanks for the pics. I think a wooden deck with the planks laid across the bridge (perpendicular to and under the tracks) would look fine. Maybe put a thin piece of plywood or something under the planks to support them and to attach the track to?

 

[StorkNest]

All the colors mentioned I have seen on real truss bridge pictures, also add red and green (the color of your bridge ) to the list.

 

[Klinger]

Little update on my project

Tempted to leave it outside this winter to gain some rust

Anyone have a good idea for a bridge deck? Its going to be a dual track HO line, and I would like to have a semi realistic deck. I was thinking of using thick pieces of Balsa wood, and weathering the wood to look more like real wood, but I am not sure how to do that either

I am open to any ideas or suggestions.

 

[jadebullet]

A stain might work for weathering the wood, but I am not sure. Also carving knots into it, or something like that.

 

[picture]

As light and flexible as Balsa wood is, it breakss too easy, unless you use a thick piece. You should use plywood. Thats just my thought.

Matt

 

[robbiehanson]

How stiff is the bridge itself? If you need extra structural support to prevent bending/twisting, I'd go for plywood. Balsa should DEFINITELY work well as a bridge deck atop the ties.

 

[Klinger]

Its pretty stiff, I carefully gave it a heavy load, without any flex that I could notice. I am pretty sure it will take the weight of a large HO locomotive (the largest we run is Athearn Bigboys/Challengers, and a Browser Duplex)

I am tackling this from an engineering point of view, I think using the Balsa wood I will give the bridge some extra support length wise, using thick balsa along the side, and then thinner, but still thick balsa width wise to make a realistic bridge deck

 

[cburton8]

Steel Truss Bridge

Klinger,
Bear in mind that most truss bridges were designed as an "open" structure, to allow wind and air to flow around and through the structure.That said, the bridge you have appears to be an "American Flyer" tin-plate type.These were useually generic in design. The main issues confronting you will be, proportion and sound. I'd suggest placing two pieces of flex-track at approximate spacing and place your largest loco on the bridge and study the proportions, heighth, width, etc. If all looks good, proceed. I think 1/4" plywood, Foam board, or Gatorboard, can supply a satisfactory base, add a layer of 1/8"cork,(to deaden the sound), and your ready for the "bridge track". You did not mention what code track your modular group was using, but Walthers has a very reailistic bridge track (code 83), with guard rails and NBW details. You can "fudge" the over-all effect with a light ballasting (between the ties, not over them) and with a dusting of Dull-Coat and some rusty weathering of powdered chalk, you should have what you want. Have fun,
Chuck

 

[Klinger]

we run all code 100, as much as I want to run code 83, many of our members have older Riverossi equipment that has been donated and sold to our members, so code 83 caused problems with the larger Riverossi flanges.

As far as proportion goes, that is not a main concern, this bridge was also donated and we wanted to use it mainly for that reason...also because we are in need of another straight modular, which is 45" long, so this bridge, plus some wood approaches that will be on either end so it can be clamped to the other modulars, will span the 45" gap, and also serve as a bridge for members to more easily get in and out of the center of the layout

 

[cburton8]

Steel Truss Bridge

Klinger,
Don't have my "Walthers Bible" handy at the moment, but I'm sure they have bridge track in code 100 too.In a pinch, you could probably get by with the standard flex track with the ballast added, but be ready for some flack from the "rivet counters". Check out some of Ben Dorsey's bridges to see what I mean. Adding guard rails is really a detail that should not be left out. Happy modeling,
Chuck

 

[Klinger]

Klinger,
Don't have my "Walthers Bible" handy at the moment, but I'm sure they have bridge track in code 100 too.In a pinch, you could probably get by with the standard flex track with the ballast added, but be ready for some flack from the "rivet counters". Check out some of Ben Dorsey's bridges to see what I mean. Adding guard rails is really a detail that should not be left out. Happy modeling,
Chuck

Rivet counters are not something that our layout attracts. Its done by Kids 8-20 (me being the oldest member at 20) so absolute realism is not something we strive for, we show what kids can do!

Ill look into the Walthers bridge track, also did not think of looking at trainz bridges, may be a great aid to see what I need to do