So I want to get into HO scale model railroading...
- Thread starter farecoal
- Start date
cascaderailroad
New member
Ready to Run trainsets are generaly junk...from China. Do not buy pre-packaged trainsets.
Tyco and Bachman used to be the absoute worst junk, and Rivarrossi, AHM, IHC, and Atlas were also poor running cheaply made units.
Some have come up quite a ways over the years, and now produce high quality locos.
If a loco has rubber traction tires...do not buy it ! If a unit does not have ALL its wheels driven by gears...do not buy it ! If a loco doesn't have all steel wheel electrical pick up...don't buy it ! If a loco has cheap thin brass electrical wipers rubbing the wheels...don't buy it !
Athearn is a quality loco manufacturer, and buying all you equipment singly, not packaged as a cheap trainset, will insure good running trains. Visit your hobbyshop...some second hand reworked locos are a good buy...a single lone loco (bought separately) should cost $45 to $125...anything cheaper is pure Chineese junk...don't buy junk !
An Athearn SW-1500 or some other high quality short switcher will start your collection off nicely. Buy a quality old re-worked steamer at your hobby shop. DCC is not necessary, especially for beginners...straight Analog DC will run your trains very well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2umTTPFfiiY
You get what you pay for...You pay for what you get !
Tyco and Bachman used to be the absoute worst junk, and Rivarrossi, AHM, IHC, and Atlas were also poor running cheaply made units.
Some have come up quite a ways over the years, and now produce high quality locos.
If a loco has rubber traction tires...do not buy it ! If a unit does not have ALL its wheels driven by gears...do not buy it ! If a loco doesn't have all steel wheel electrical pick up...don't buy it ! If a loco has cheap thin brass electrical wipers rubbing the wheels...don't buy it !
Athearn is a quality loco manufacturer, and buying all you equipment singly, not packaged as a cheap trainset, will insure good running trains. Visit your hobbyshop...some second hand reworked locos are a good buy...a single lone loco (bought separately) should cost $45 to $125...anything cheaper is pure Chineese junk...don't buy junk !
An Athearn SW-1500 or some other high quality short switcher will start your collection off nicely. Buy a quality old re-worked steamer at your hobby shop. DCC is not necessary, especially for beginners...straight Analog DC will run your trains very well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2umTTPFfiiY
You get what you pay for...You pay for what you get !
Last edited:
Junk Trains?
Yes there are alot of junk trains out there however Atlas,Athearn,Kato is good stuff. You can pick up a good starter set at a hobby store or train show for around $60.00 and up if you look around. Just about all trains are made in china even the name brand stuff. My Atlas & Kato stuff has been running for years,so to say that it's junk is not my experience. Bachman Spectrum is pretty good also. If I sold HO stuff I'd be glad to set you up with something cheap but I only sell N & Z-Scale products. Good luck and happy train hunting.
Alco_P-A
Yes there are alot of junk trains out there however Atlas,Athearn,Kato is good stuff. You can pick up a good starter set at a hobby store or train show for around $60.00 and up if you look around. Just about all trains are made in china even the name brand stuff. My Atlas & Kato stuff has been running for years,so to say that it's junk is not my experience. Bachman Spectrum is pretty good also. If I sold HO stuff I'd be glad to set you up with something cheap but I only sell N & Z-Scale products. Good luck and happy train hunting.
Alco_P-Aillinoiscentral
SARM Volunteer
I've found Bachmann Spectrum very reliable and detailed in recent years.
I recommend the Bachmann World's Greatest Hobby Starter Set, you may also be interested in getting Model Railroader Magazine's Getting Started with Model Railroading, I also recommend World's Greatest Hobby's video of the same title which is narrated by Micheal Gross.
Backmann's track set is used in the film and the Model Railroader staff will guide you through making the alyout, step by step.
I also recommend any of Jeff Wilson's books that he wrote for Model Railroader.
Also see any articles in MR written by Jim Hediger, David Popp, Tony Koester, or Cody Grivno.
Very Informative articles by them.
Cheers,
Woody:wave:
I recommend the Bachmann World's Greatest Hobby Starter Set, you may also be interested in getting Model Railroader Magazine's Getting Started with Model Railroading, I also recommend World's Greatest Hobby's video of the same title which is narrated by Micheal Gross.
Backmann's track set is used in the film and the Model Railroader staff will guide you through making the alyout, step by step.
I also recommend any of Jeff Wilson's books that he wrote for Model Railroader.
Also see any articles in MR written by Jim Hediger, David Popp, Tony Koester, or Cody Grivno.
Very Informative articles by them.
Cheers,
Woody:wave:
I hate to burst your bubble, but you're going to pay more than $50 for a decent steam loco. The previous posters have given you some good advice. I haven't seen any decent starter sets although somebody may produce one these days. I haven't looked at sets in 15 or 20 years.
The quality of the locos are not the only thing to look for though. You'll find that a lot of newcomers to model railroading quickly give up for various reasons, but I'd guess that a big reason is cheap starter sets with poor quality locomotives, improperly gauged track and wheelsets and improperly weighted cars. These cause an inordinate number of derailments and causes frustration in the beginner. The National Model Railroaders Association (NMRA) has a set of standards that should help you along the way. Below are a few pointers to observe to assist you in keeping you interest up.
1. Make sure that your wheelsets on your rolling stock are properly gauged. Improperly gauged wheelsets are a primary cause of a lot of derailments. Make sure that your track is properly gauged also. This is VERY important.
2. Stay away from steel or brass track. A lot of trainsets used to come with brass track. I don't know if that's still true, but brass is a never ending cleaning nightmare as brass oxidizes very quickly. It's also a soft metal and the surface of the rail becomes scarred and pitted which tends to attract dirt. I use only nickel-silver track (flex-track) which comes in pieces about 3 ft long and are very versatile. I tend to stay away from the standard rigid pieces of track. I'd prefer not to mention a brand name here, but you'll figure it out.
3. Make sure that your cars are properly weighted. The NMRA standards will give you guidance on weights of cars depending on their length.
4. Keep your track curves as wide as possible. Although most (not all) steam locos will run an 18 inch radius curve, they don't like it very much. Try to keep your minimum curves to 24 inch radius if possible, especially if you're running steam or passenger equipment (or anything long).
5. Make sure that your track joints are smooth and not kinked. A joint that is even slightly kinked (especially in a curve) will cause you all kinds of headaches. Rail joints should be soldered whenever possible.
6. You'll probably want to change the couplers from those that come with the car kit. I like Kadee couplers myself although there are some other good ones out there.
7. Read and study as much as you can. Kalmbach publishing produces some excellent little books for the beginner and I highly recommend them. I would also recommend Model Railroader or Model Railroad Craftsman magazines for good tips and guidance.
8. There are some good on-line stores to shop your hobby needs.
I hope this helps you a little.
Mike
The quality of the locos are not the only thing to look for though. You'll find that a lot of newcomers to model railroading quickly give up for various reasons, but I'd guess that a big reason is cheap starter sets with poor quality locomotives, improperly gauged track and wheelsets and improperly weighted cars. These cause an inordinate number of derailments and causes frustration in the beginner. The National Model Railroaders Association (NMRA) has a set of standards that should help you along the way. Below are a few pointers to observe to assist you in keeping you interest up.
1. Make sure that your wheelsets on your rolling stock are properly gauged. Improperly gauged wheelsets are a primary cause of a lot of derailments. Make sure that your track is properly gauged also. This is VERY important.
2. Stay away from steel or brass track. A lot of trainsets used to come with brass track. I don't know if that's still true, but brass is a never ending cleaning nightmare as brass oxidizes very quickly. It's also a soft metal and the surface of the rail becomes scarred and pitted which tends to attract dirt. I use only nickel-silver track (flex-track) which comes in pieces about 3 ft long and are very versatile. I tend to stay away from the standard rigid pieces of track. I'd prefer not to mention a brand name here, but you'll figure it out.
3. Make sure that your cars are properly weighted. The NMRA standards will give you guidance on weights of cars depending on their length.
4. Keep your track curves as wide as possible. Although most (not all) steam locos will run an 18 inch radius curve, they don't like it very much. Try to keep your minimum curves to 24 inch radius if possible, especially if you're running steam or passenger equipment (or anything long).
5. Make sure that your track joints are smooth and not kinked. A joint that is even slightly kinked (especially in a curve) will cause you all kinds of headaches. Rail joints should be soldered whenever possible.
6. You'll probably want to change the couplers from those that come with the car kit. I like Kadee couplers myself although there are some other good ones out there.
7. Read and study as much as you can. Kalmbach publishing produces some excellent little books for the beginner and I highly recommend them. I would also recommend Model Railroader or Model Railroad Craftsman magazines for good tips and guidance.
8. There are some good on-line stores to shop your hobby needs.
I hope this helps you a little.
Mike
Well, there are a few problems with that: I only have a gift card for amazon, not online hobby stores, and I know I definitely couldn't modify a locomotive in any way without breaking it. Also, I probably won't have much space for the track, and I literally have none right now. Finally, I'm scared to to get individual track, since I don't want to waste money on incompatible track or something.
I agree! I have a Bachman Union Pacific 2-6-2, which is VERY detailed, has a device which makes smoke when you put oil in, very complex driving "bits". It doesn't run though, because its an analouge model and my trainset is a digital. It just needs a digital decoder for it to work. I'd say its worth $100.
Last edited:
applegathc
NoT tHe StAtUeS!
Athearn Website
Example of good mainline bulk power Std. AC4400CW (apx. $100):
Here's for you're locals or maybe possible yard work a reliable GP38 (apx $70):
Some coalporters maybe (apx $120):
cam
I may recommend Athearn, they have quite a very nice detail standard, and are not too expensive. I particularly know them for being the sole producer of the bombardier bilevel pushpull coach set, however, many of the locomotives are not equiped for remote control, (DCC or the decoder running? )
Red_Rattler
Since 09 May 2003
Since you're a Yank, um I mean an American :hehe: have you checked the NMRA(1) site and railroad/railway magazines?
And if you buying outside your country (& this goes for any electrical item), make sure it is suitable for your electrical supply.
1. Yep, I almost typed NRMA for an Australian site.
EDIT: Farecoal (better watch those greenies saying coal is fair/fare :hehe Most likely spending a bit more money, would probably save you money in the long run.
EDIT-2 (forget to add it to above edit): I think Bachmann make some sort of E-Zee track don't they?
And if you buying outside your country (& this goes for any electrical item), make sure it is suitable for your electrical supply.
1. Yep, I almost typed NRMA for an Australian site.
EDIT: Farecoal (better watch those greenies saying coal is fair/fare :hehe
Most likely spending a bit more money, would probably save you money in the long run.EDIT-2 (forget to add it to above edit): I think Bachmann make some sort of E-Zee track don't they?
Last edited:
Yes they do.
http://www.onlinetrains.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=HOBACEZ
http://www.bachmanneztrack.com/
A hint of advice- Lifelike doesn't make very good quality stuff. Trust me. I used to have heaps of lifelike items.
http://www.onlinetrains.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=HOBACEZ
http://www.bachmanneztrack.com/
A hint of advice- Lifelike doesn't make very good quality stuff. Trust me. I used to have heaps of lifelike items.
Last edited:
Red_Rattler
Since 09 May 2003
Farecoal, not sure how old you are, but flexible track may also be a go as well - but may require experience in cutting if required.
EDIT: Don't just make the mistake and buy and try to build a complete train (or tram for that matter) layout up quickly, it is better to spend time on it for a better result - exactly the same as items in simulators. Even a simple and small layout looks better if it built properly, instead of quickly.
I believe maintentance on steam engines is more harder on steam, than diesels or electric locomotive power.Farecoal said:
EDIT: Don't just make the mistake and buy and try to build a complete train (or tram for that matter) layout up quickly, it is better to spend time on it for a better result - exactly the same as items in simulators. Even a simple and small layout looks better if it built properly, instead of quickly.
Last edited:
Athearn has been around for years and it's good stuff and dependable.If your looking to get HO on the cheap there is alot to find at swap meets and garage sales. Most will likely be Tyco or Bachman stuff. However I have found good loco's and rolling stock in these venues. When buying used look on the bottom of the loco's and cars to see what brand they are.
If you can try the stuff before buying that helps. Hope this helps you out.....Alco_P-A
If you can try the stuff before buying that helps. Hope this helps you out.....Alco_P-A
Is this an okay track set? http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...w?ie=UTF8&qid=1261759560&sr=1-1&condition=new
And is this an okay boxcar? http://www.amazon.com/HO-RTR-SS-Sto...=UTF8&s=toys-and-games&qid=1261759874&sr=1-22
And is this an okay boxcar? http://www.amazon.com/HO-RTR-SS-Sto...=UTF8&s=toys-and-games&qid=1261759874&sr=1-22
robbiehanson
K27K27K27K27K27K27K27K27
AVOID steel track AT ALL COSTS. It may be slightly cheaper, but gets dirty quicker and may even rust.
Bachmann locomotives have improved dramatically and may be worth consideration, but anything Atlas or Athearn is worth trusting 100%.
Bachmann locomotives have improved dramatically and may be worth consideration, but anything Atlas or Athearn is worth trusting 100%.
I wouldn't necessarily say that Athearn is the best, but for the money, it's probably one of the best values around. I have several and they're all very dependable. They've never given me a minutes problem.
Mike