Issue with CPU temp?

[justinroth]

I recently started using my older (3 or 4 year old) PC rig after frustration over a 3080 laptop not performing. Asrock x299 Taichi CLX mobo, GeForce RTX3070 GPU, 64G RAM, intel core i9 10900x 3700. I was having issues with multiple installs of Trainz 2022+ a few days ago and decided to turn off the monitor. I came back and it was pretty much frozen. I restarted and it took 3 or 4 tries to boot, with the results-super laggy just on desktop and then it shut down. I figured it was a RAM issue so I ran memory test which got to 2% before the pc shut off again. Turned it off and came back the next day. Pulled all but one RAM module and it booted up and ran fine, replaced them 1 by 1 and it ran fine however it only showed half installed memory. Kinda weird? I then happened to bump part of the clamp that holds the heatsink for the water cooler and noticed it was suuuuper hot especially considering the comp had been on meer minutes. Now I discover an air filter in the front of the case for the water cooler so I clean that, clean the fans ect. Booted it back up and went into BIOS, the CPU temp shot up to 230 F withing about 20 seconds. I'm no expert but this is way too high. So now I don't know what the issue may be? This is the 1st PC I've had with a water cooler and I don't know how to trouble shoot that. Any suggestions or help? Is it the cooler or the CPU?

 

[pdkoester]

230°F (about 110°C) in BIOS is definitely red-alert territory. That kind of heat buildup in seconds suggests your CPU cooler isn’t doing its job at all, and it’s likely the root of both the shutdowns and the memory weirdness. Let’s break this down and troubleshoot methodically:

Suspected Culprit: Water Cooler Failure​

If your cooler isn’t dissipating heat, the CPU will thermal throttle or shut down to protect itself. Here’s what to check:

• Pump Functionality: Put your hand on the pump block—do you feel vibration? If not, the pump may not be running.
• Fan & Radiator Check:
  
  • Are the radiator fans spinning?
  • Is the radiator warm to the touch? If it’s cold, coolant may not be circulating.
• Clamps & Mounting Pressure: You mentioned bumping the clamp—if the cooler isn’t seated properly, thermal transfer will be poor.
• Coolant Flow: Some AIOs have clear tubing or indicators. If yours doesn’t, you might need software (like CAM or iCUE) to check pump RPMs.

Quick Diagnostic Steps​

1. Reseat the Cooler: Remove the cooler, clean off old thermal paste, reapply fresh paste, and remount it carefully.
2. BIOS Fan/Pump Monitoring: Check BIOS for pump RPM and CPU fan speed. If it’s showing 0 or N/A, that’s a red flag.
3. Try a Basic Air Cooler: If you have an old air cooler lying around, swap it in temporarily to see if temps stabilize.
4. Inspect for Leaks or Blockages: Look for any signs of coolant leakage or clogged radiator fins.

CPU Damage?​

If the cooler failed and the CPU hit 230°F repeatedly, there’s a risk of damage—but Intel CPUs are pretty resilient. If it still boots and runs fine with proper cooling, you’re probably okay.

 

[justinroth]

I don't feel any vibration from the pump block and come to think of it, there is a logo that is usually lit up, it flickers quickly upon boot and then nothing. I did notice earlier when messing around that one hose was warmer than the other. This is a bit confusing but unfortunately I can't access the radiator it's blocked by the fans. It is 4 years old I suppose the investment of a new one wouldn't be the worst thing. Hopefully the CPU isn't toast! Thanks for the info!

 

[big_b]

I had a similar issue about 6mts ago with temps rising quickly shortly after booting. Could barely get into windows before it crashed .No visible damage anywhere but dying just after going into windows.
Took to local PC shop and water pump had failed this was a pump under 12mts old caused by bumping the case sideway which caused it to lift/tilt about 50cm/2" and drop back down.

 

[pdkoester]

My honest opinion, liquid/water cooling methods are unnecessary for most. Maybe if you have tried a really good Noctua air cooling solution and found it not sufficient and had to go the route of a custom liquid cooler with overflow, bypass, massive radiator(s) and sump.

 

[justinroth]

My honest opinion, liquid/water cooling methods are unnecessary for most. Maybe if you have tried a really good Noctua air cooling solution and found it not sufficient and had to go the route of a custom liquid cooler with overflow, bypass, massive radiator(s) and sump.

I was looking into going the route of air cooling and discussing things with my buddy who works in IT. The area around my cpu has a heatsink on the MOBO to the top and RAM to the left and right with very close clearance as well as the GPU is right below. I found a new water cooler for not much more than an air cooler which may not even fit. Choices seem somewhat limited due to my older 2066 socket.

 

[lewisner]

I used to have an MSI AIO water cooler and to start with it was fantastic but sadly they suffer from a buildup of sediment in the CPU block which effectively stops them working.

I switched over to a Noctua NH-D15 Chromax which is vast and rather ugly but itt does its job and I don't have to worry whether it is working or leaking. It's very expensive but I bought mine for about £60 in boxed used condition. Due to its size you have to measure your PC case to see whether it will fit.

NH-D15 chromax.black

The NH-D15 chromax.black is an all-black version of Noctua’s award-winning flagship model NH-D15 premium-quality quiet CPU cooler. Thanks to the same proven dual-tower heatsink design and NF-A15 PWM fans, it stays true to the NH-D15’s successful formula of rivalling the performance of all-in-one...

noctua.at