Weathering
- Thread starter nuni727
- Start date
ShadyCadence
New member
It's tricky.
Actually what I've been working with are scans of HO scale equipment, then copy/paste/scale it to fit the mesh. The cars I've scanned are severely weathered, so I use the airbrush to "dial it back". The key to weathering is subtlety, and I find it best achieved by turning down the opacity to about 15%. It takes much longer to do, but I think the results are surprisingly good.
Judge for yourself
Actually what I've been working with are scans of HO scale equipment, then copy/paste/scale it to fit the mesh. The cars I've scanned are severely weathered, so I use the airbrush to "dial it back". The key to weathering is subtlety, and I find it best achieved by turning down the opacity to about 15%. It takes much longer to do, but I think the results are surprisingly good.
Judge for yourself
cascaderailroad
New member
A general rule:
Streaks of rust should be subtle, and not overweathered (not resembling like flocks of dirty pigeons have left millions of droppings all over equipment).
Dirt & grime are generally lower on the car body, and are more dusty nearer where the wheels kick up dirty rainwater and grease.
Locos are more dirty nearest the exhaust stack, and where intake grills draw in air.
Streaks of rust should be subtle, and not overweathered (not resembling like flocks of dirty pigeons have left millions of droppings all over equipment).
Dirt & grime are generally lower on the car body, and are more dusty nearer where the wheels kick up dirty rainwater and grease.
Locos are more dirty nearest the exhaust stack, and where intake grills draw in air.
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I reduce the color saturation to simulate the fading that normally occurs due to exposure to the elements. I generally apply it to the whole skin then touch up any areas that would not fade (unpainted aluminum, etc.) or might have been repainted without repainting the whole car (reporting marks, etc.). I use Photoshop but I expect Gimp has that capability as well.