Goodbye O-Guage, Hello HO

Fairly good choice in track for a beginner there. My 'test' track is made of the steel stuff, which is alright for testing on and for just displaying stuff on it, but not very easy to keep clean. As for Bachmann, well I've got 3 Bachmann items that are fairly new. A 4-4-0 (UP #119), the Dewitt Clinton set, and a Gandy Dancer. The Dewitt Clinton is the only one to give me any trouble (2 of the driven tender wheels fall out all the time now). I would still say stay away (No expert on Bachmann), but they are a good model if looked after correctly.

Being an Australian modeler, I don't have much in the US area, but out of my US collection my best runner is an Athearn GP-50. Surprisingly, one of my best models is a life-like 'flat top' GP-50 (I think it's a GP-50 anyways). I wouldn't stay away from them, just be wary. If you see a loco in their cheap series that makes you go 'hmmmm, I think I could make something out of that', then get it. They are a good place to learn to kitbash/modify from, and do run reasonably well. My oldest models are both life-like, and both motors still work (The first is a steamer, I stuffed the wheels on that by accident, the other is an F7 that I have since repainted but it still works perfectly).

Very nice start though, you should be proud of you set so far. Oh yes, you may want to change over to kadee couplers. They will work much better than the horn-hooks, they are less likely to uncouple on bumpy track. I either use kadee, NEM 'dunny seat', or hornby couplers on my layout. These 3 have less trouble with bumpy track than the horn hooks. However, you may want to have some 'barrier' wagons, that have a kadee at one end, and a horn hook at the other. This allows you to slowly build up the wagons with kadees, and to learn how to attach the to wagon that are a little harder to attachment them to.
Zec
 
Thankyou all,

Before starting, I talked to quite a few people about the X2F and knuckle coupler situation. Since my FA2, and all ten of my IHC and AHM cars are hooks, it would be less expensive to buy horn hooks for the few knuckle'd units at the moment. What's nice about Atlas is they actually give you the opion of what you use by packaging X2Fs in the box. Right now, my budget (Or rather, what's left of it) is geared towards track, buildings, etc.
While the Plasticville buildings are a pain, you can't beat the price and in the end, look decent. Hell, even though they're snap fit, I ended up glueing the interlocking tower.
Right now, I've been most happy with Atlas "Classics" and Athearn, as I will eventually try to get a C425, RS11, and F59. There are two really top priority things on my list however and those are a DL109 and C-Liner, which I can't find anywhere.
I'm hoping my E33 doesn't give me problems, I'm going to be as careful with it as I am with 529 (A quite rare find).
 
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Glory Halleujah for that! I got IHC cars which use the exact same system!
Actually if I remember right (I tossed them away and put in Kadee #5's) IHC uses their own type of DUAL knuckle/X2F couplers. Obviously early IHC units would have the standard X2F, the newer ones however, carry a coupler able to connect to both X2F AND knuckles.

tbob: trust me investing in knuckle couplers is well worth the money.
 
I just love HO Scale , i wish i could go to that show in Detriot but ,i dont have the time to ride trains all over the place ;) . I wouldnt fly b/c it is expensive and Nauseating :puke:
 
Equipment Update

Howdy folks,

Got my E33 in, and since I've been hearing quite a few war stories from you guys, I filled out my Lifetime Warranty card. So, I took some pictures too, and put the knuckles back on the freight cars.

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Got some other pictures too...
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I have three bachmann locos and one bachmann DMU... A BR class 03, A GP-30 and a Dash 9 or the spectrum series and and one BR Class 158.

IT all comes down to taking care of stuff and the luck of the draw. The 03 has gone for years, The 158 is just as good and provided you use the right controllers (hell, classic DC rocks every time!!) they'll go forever. It's when you start using pulses of DC (from a non-capacitored thyristor based solution) with no smoothing (essential in any DC system if you don't want a problem) that you'll have problems.

Thyristors (which can be switched on and off) are used to create a stream of DC pulses which average out to the voltage you desire (without capacitors). This is fine for most solidly built motors of the ringfield type (Hornby models in the UK use them an awful lot) but not so good for the mashima (sp?) can style motor. Simple reason is that the thyristor lets through a portion of the positive AC wave and without smoothing, this can cause heating inside the motor. too much heat and the insulation on the windings can break down.

Thyristors, when used with capacitors (normally built in to the classic DC controllers), provide a very smooth power output. The capacitors take in the pulses and let them out slowly over time so the pulsing effect is much reduced. This reduces the heating effect in the motors and thus means that models are likely to last longer than normal.

Having said that, I don't have a foggiest on how DCC works when it comes to supplying voltage other than knowing that a chip inside the loco does all the work of controlling the voltage across the motor. Maybe it'd be worth someone putting an osilloscope across the motor output on the chip to see what the waveform turns out to be. if, as I suspect (given how small the decoders are), they lack sufficiently large capacitance to smooth out the DC, it'll show itself up as a stream of square wave pulses. if they do have sufficient capacitance, the waveform will be sawtoothed with the majority of the signal being voltage and the sawtooth being this little bit on top.

So remember...
It pays to buy quality controllers and quality DCC decoders. Buy dirt-cheap ones and it might cost you more in the long run.

regards

Harry
 
I have three bachmann locos and one bachmann DMU... A BR class 03, A GP-30 and a Dash 9 or the spectrum series and and one BR Class 158.

IT all comes down to taking care of stuff and the luck of the draw. The 03 has gone for years, The 158 is just as good and provided you use the right controllers (hell, classic DC rocks every time!!) they'll go forever. It's when you start using pulses of DC (from a non-capacitored thyristor based solution) with no smoothing (essential in any DC system if you don't want a problem) that you'll have problems.

Thyristors (which can be switched on and off) are used to create a stream of DC pulses which average out to the voltage you desire (without capacitors). This is fine for most solidly built motors of the ringfield type (Hornby models in the UK use them an awful lot) but not so good for the mashima (sp?) can style motor. Simple reason is that the thyristor lets through a portion of the positive AC wave and without smoothing, this can cause heating inside the motor. too much heat and the insulation on the windings can break down.

Thyristors, when used with capacitors (normally built in to the classic DC controllers), provide a very smooth power output. The capacitors take in the pulses and let them out slowly over time so the pulsing effect is much reduced. This reduces the heating effect in the motors and thus means that models are likely to last longer than normal.

Having said that, I don't have a foggiest on how DCC works when it comes to supplying voltage other than knowing that a chip inside the loco does all the work of controlling the voltage across the motor. Maybe it'd be worth someone putting an osilloscope across the motor output on the chip to see what the waveform turns out to be. if, as I suspect (given how small the decoders are), they lack sufficiently large capacitance to smooth out the DC, it'll show itself up as a stream of square wave pulses. if they do have sufficient capacitance, the waveform will be sawtoothed with the majority of the signal being voltage and the sawtooth being this little bit on top.

So remember...
It pays to buy quality controllers and quality DCC decoders. Buy dirt-cheap ones and it might cost you more in the long run.

regards

Harry

Harry the voltage is supplied to the track constantly at 24v AC and the chip then picks up the digiatal pulse signal and then decodes that and then applies the correct amount of voltage required to drive the motor. HTH :)
 
Howdy folks,

Got my E33 in, and since I've been hearing quite a few war stories from you guys, I filled out my Lifetime Warranty card. So, I took some pictures too, and put the knuckles back on the freight cars.





Got some other pictures too...
That is good as long as you fill out that card they will pretty much replace the loco for free.And they will do the same if you buy some cars from them as well.
P.S. nice train.
 
New Haven, so you, also, I have the exact steam O train set. I'm sticking with O due to my large collection, but the price is killing me.
 
personally, i like to find whatever trains I can, at swap meets, on ebay when I have money, even from other people who no longer want what they consider to be their junk. I just thoroughly enjoy what I have, which does include a few bachmanns, a life like, and a few athearns, even a coupe i am not even sure what on earth they are...

But this is the point of model railroading: HAVING FUN WITH WHAT YOU HAVE.

I personally have lost due to circumstances eyond my control my entire collection once and had to start again from SCRATCH. even though I have been able to find similar items to what I once had, it has still been fun to just run what I was able to. So maybe you have X2F couplers, plastic wheels and steel track. It doesnt matter, what does is that you have fun with it. I dont even have a dedicated layout, i just get the running trains bug and every now and then I'll set up my track on the floor and have fun watching my train go round and round.


i'd like to say welcome to HO scale, friend.
 
Thank you thadeus,

It's funny that you say that about finding trains at swap meets and people who think they're junk.

My dad being a motorcycle enthusiast (he is to bikes what we are to trains) will often take me to the bike shows at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds in Rhinebeck, NY. One of my favorite ones to go to is the swap meet because there's alot more than bikes. I often find train things among other things and it's almost like an adventure digging through the various bins, etc. and seeing what you can find.

What's funny is a find alot of people around where I live are either getting too old to continue the hobby or just lose interest. My dad does heating and air conditioning for a local company and is often in people's basements, where, most people have train layouts. So, he'll ask and if the person is like the above mentioned, I'll often end up with some new equipment.
 
I got a PRR or B&O pacific for free. My train repair teacher recieved a box of old trains and the pacific was in there. We completely restored it (Bent the rods back into shape, cleaned the motor, repainted it, got new trucks, etc.) I thought it was a fun project.
 
lol I thought I was the only dumpster diver :cool:

From my pics on the first page it may look like I have a lot (perhaps I do), but I've spent in relative sense very little money. Probably 90% of my stuff is fro garage sales, or bought used. Whatever is new was probably very cheap (except for my Spectrum shay I didn't want to skimp on it). A lot of the units look odd and perhaps aren't prototypical because I bought them with heavy damage. That's where the fun is though I find, buying after-market details and
rebuilding them into either their original configuration or into something for my own enjoyment (an Athearn SD9 with an SD70ACe style front or a SD9 with a switcher cab?)

But hey! That's part of the hobby :D
 
Update!

I took some more pictures showing some recently acquired items.

Plasticville buildings and a very small portion of my maintainence equipment.
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Bits and bobs
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Suburban Station that I was given
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I'm going to eventually end up painting these sharks in NYC Cigar Band paint, the Warbonnet just looks too out of place.
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My $20 FA2 :p
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Someone gave me this transformer, from what I've heard, it's very expensive.
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529 and a Rock Island BL2
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Track and freight cars
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