surveyor
- Thread starter sardon
- Start date
Hi Don. I agree with you. About all I try to do is to set the SENSITIVITY dial around to the 0700am position. At least it makes the circle in question move up or down very slowly. I can have some control. But it appears that the circle covers 4 squares, and I guess we cant do anything about it. Good luck.:wave:
Actually it covers one vertex. To avoid blowing up the 3D engine, the terrain is mapped as 10 meter square polygons. Height adjustments are done by vertex, Textures can only be applied by 10m square units. When you see ground textures fuzzing into each other that is done by the 3D engine blending adjacent textures, If you go into the performance options screen and set "texture passes" to minimum you will see what I mean.
Sorry to disagree Sardon, but setting the sensitivity to the 7am position will always raise or lower too much at a time - it is making a very blunt instrument indeed. I do exactly the opposite. Like you I choose the minimum circle size and then maximum sensitivity (ie the 5 o'clock position). Then it is a matter of practice, manipulating the mouse very, very delicately. When I started (only a few months ago) I thought I would never master it. But the secret is patience and practice. Eventually you ignore the actual circle because you can "feel" where the lifting point is. Now I find that, within the obvious constraints of the ten-metre mesh, I can create whatever configuration I want.
The only time I choose anything other than minimum radius is when I want to raise a large area to the same level or to apply a texture over a wide area.
Hope this is helpful.
Peter
The only time I choose anything other than minimum radius is when I want to raise a large area to the same level or to apply a texture over a wide area.
Hope this is helpful.
Peter
Hello Peter...That was me, not Sardon. Please help me here. I must be missing something.
If I set the SENSITIVITY to minimum at the 0700 o'clock position, the raising and the and lowering are very slow, which is what I desire. When I set it at 0500, it moves lightning fast. What did I miss? Hello Manjoe. Sorry about the mistaken identity.
I agree that minimum sensitivity reduces the speed at which you can raise (or lower) terrain, but it makes it more or less impossible to move small areas without doing the same to too many adjacent squares. That is what I meant by describing it as a blunt instrument.
With practice, you can make very fine adjustments. I find that I can now treat the grid as a physical wire mesh. You know you cannot move a corner without having some effect on adjacent squares, because the wire between the corners does not bend.
If you find that you just cannot control the mouse at maximum sensitivity, you might find it possible to adjust your mouse's settings. It depends what operating system you are using. In some cases you can alter settings in the mouse driver itself. If you suffer from Windows, select Mouse in the Control Panel and adjust the pointer speed. (You will find it in "Pointer Options".)
I hope you manage to conquer this because, if you do, you will suddenly find that you can create the terrain you want rather than that which the program seems to want you to have.
Good luck.
Peter
I agree that minimum sensitivity reduces the speed at which you can raise (or lower) terrain, but it makes it more or less impossible to move small areas without doing the same to too many adjacent squares. That is what I meant by describing it as a blunt instrument.
With practice, you can make very fine adjustments. I find that I can now treat the grid as a physical wire mesh. You know you cannot move a corner without having some effect on adjacent squares, because the wire between the corners does not bend.
If you find that you just cannot control the mouse at maximum sensitivity, you might find it possible to adjust your mouse's settings. It depends what operating system you are using. In some cases you can alter settings in the mouse driver itself. If you suffer from Windows, select Mouse in the Control Panel and adjust the pointer speed. (You will find it in "Pointer Options".)
I hope you manage to conquer this because, if you do, you will suddenly find that you can create the terrain you want rather than that which the program seems to want you to have.
Good luck.
Peter
Thanks Peter...Now I understand. I thought my TOPOLOGY was working in reverse!!!!!!!!!!!!!:hehe: Thanks again..........:wave:
I'll tell you what I am trying to do. I have a pond next to my sawmill where the logs float waiting to be picked up. The track comes in the mill real close to the building. I wanted to continue the track along the edge of the bank to the log dump so I am trying to cut the bank back close to the track but when I do that it undermines the track. Then if I use smooth for the track it takes out a bunch of my pond. I have pretty much decided that I can't do that and am now experimenting with putting a bridge along the bank. I don't really want a bridge there but if I have to I have to. There must be an answer to achieve this.
Don
Don
Hello Sardon
To achieve what you want, try this:
I hope you have success with it. Please let us know how you get on.
BTW - If you find you have to use a bridge, try "betonbridge 1 trk". I think it's built in to TRS 2006. If not, it'll be on the DLS.
Peter
To achieve what you want, try this:
- Make sure that the track (and therefore the edge of the pond) is aligned exactly north-south or east-west. Otherwise you will be trying to "crease" a 10 metre square, which you cannot do.
- Set the height of the terrain to the height you want the track to run on. Include the adjacent areas of the pond.
- Working very carefully, at maximum sensitivity, use the raise/lower tool to lower the vertices at the far end of the square from the track. If you have a steady enough hand you should be able to get quite a steep slope. You will find that sometimes you will go too far and the edge that you want to remain stationary starts sinking. Because you have levelled the surrounding area, it should be fairly easy to repair the damage and maintain a level track bed.
- Once you are reasonably satisfied with the levels, lay your track.
- DO NOT, on any account, use the "smooth spline" tool. This always gives you a much wider track bed than you want for your purposes.
- Make sure that you have a spline point on the track just before and just after your pond side. Make sure that the spline height at both ends is the same. The track should sit comfortably on the terrain. If it is too low (or too high) correct it by adjusting the spline height. But make sure you apply the same correction at both ends.
- For any final fine adjustment, start at one end of the track with the raise/lower tool and apply the smallest amount of correction until you get it right.
I hope you have success with it. Please let us know how you get on.
BTW - If you find you have to use a bridge, try "betonbridge 1 trk". I think it's built in to TRS 2006. If not, it'll be on the DLS.
Peter
Last edited:
The bridge along the edge of the pond for the track is the method that slugsmasher (Rich Blake) uses with his SS Multilog Dump 3NG (kuid:86661:144004) in the Clear Lake V2 route. Looks good and natural. I don't think any RR would put track very near to the edge of a body of water without somesort of shoring support. I'm not running my 50 ton loco near the edge
Bob
Bob
Have you tried the Hole technique? It is used to put inspection pits in engine houses, but I'll bet you could use it to get the sharp drop-off you are looking for. An then texture the verticle surface as a retaining wall. Then your engineers will not be afraid to take those 50 tone locos along that section of track.
Dap
Dap
RWEBER You are right. My goof. I was only thinking about how nice it would look---not about safety. This morning my AI driver told me--- and I quote: THERE IS NO WAY I AM TAKING MY ENGINE ACROSS THAT---YOU STUPID IDIOT!!!!!!!!!
Soooo I am going to build a bridge. I had no idea he would be that scared.
Don
Soooo I am going to build a bridge. I had no idea he would be that scared.
Don