Rip-offs at the hobby shop (overpriced stuff you could make at home for less)

9000DOLLAR

INACTIVE
Ok, I was shopping at a hobby shop one day when I saw a pack of lumber loads for HO-scale trains.
When I looked closer, I noticed that they were nothing more than painted blocks of wood!

Why would someone buy that when one could make that same thing at home with "craft sticks" from a "dollar store" much more cheaply?

Has anyone else here seen a rip-off at a hobby shop? (overpriced stuff that can be made at home for less)
 
I've seen those little balsa wood airplanes that are prone to breaking. Wanna save some money? Make a paper plane.
 
Ok, I was shopping at a hobby shop one day when I saw a pack of lumber loads for HO-scale trains.
When I looked closer, I noticed that they were nothing more than painted blocks of wood!

Why would someone buy that when one could make that same thing at home with "craft sticks" from a "dollar store" much more cheaply?

Has anyone else here seen a rip-off at a hobby shop? (overpriced stuff that can be made at home for less)

This is typical and very common and has been for years. There are many things that can be made at home, and depending upon ones own skills can be quite nice. My dad built my first N-scale trainset when I was about 7 years old. He worked as a graphic artist and used his skills to scratch build me a water tower. This stained balsa structure looks far better than any craftsman kit I've ever seen. I no longer have my train layouts but the water tower is still mine and sits on a shelf for display.

As I mentioned before you can easily make many things yourself. Depending upon where you live, there are many plants outside that can be made into trees by dipping into Acrylic medium and then covering them with green foamy bits. This costs far less, and probably more fun than buying premade bristle brush pines at the hobby shop.

John
 
Atlas N Scale used to be total carp, as was Bachman, LifeLike, MicroTrains ... etc ... There used to be a whole slew of cheap Chinese junk on the market, with rubber band drive, rubber traction tires, phosphor bronze wiper electrical contacts, with cheap gear ratio, that would not even operate well below 60 mph.

That's why I like Trainz ... You can creep along realistically switching at 1-5 mph ... and rarely pick a switch or catch a frog, and have a huge 36 car string line derailment (pulling off the track inwards to a curve).

I buy only Athearn and ConCor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X764q33UUgQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3mw2kaIbx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql-9t35n-IM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB_bQDUxykw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIecEnVBTM4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNJO4cwWjS8
 
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Well you have KATO which is a good company, and there trains is made in JAPAN, not China, they also have awesome Amtrak products as well.
 
Well, you could use that strip to make your own plane instead of spending $5 for the same thing with just a couple of decals on it.
 
T...He worked as a graphic artist and used his skills to scratch build ...

John
That is probably the biggest reason. Not everyone has the skills or the patience to build their own. Same thing in Trainz, some some build their own, others rely on the generosity of others. Same in the scale world, either do it yourself or pay.

If you can, you do. If you can't, you pay or do without.
 
That is probably the biggest reason. Not everyone has the skills or the patience to build their own. Same thing in Trainz, some some build their own, others rely on the generosity of others. Same in the scale world, either do it yourself or pay.

If you can, you do. If you can't, you pay or do without.

Very true, Martin. This is the reason why I make very few 3d models and download lots of other people's content. :)

John
 
I've seen those little balsa wood airplanes that are prone to breaking. Wanna save some money? Make a paper plane.

On the topic of paper planes, PAPER PLANES WITH BAMBOO SKEWERS TAPED TO THEM ARE DANGEROUS! (I did it, and put a hole in a wall [it was a small one too])

On the topic of cheap ways to scratchbuild stuff, usually a lot of household items (such as empty quik-oats containers) that look like tanks, can be turned into tanks with a little paint, skewers (or dowels), and glue.


And on the subject of model train engines, I think that the least compicated engine is the most reliable. I have two Broadway limited engines and some Bachmann trains. (they were both made in China) Guess which one broke first?

The Broadway Limited's broke first. They still run, but the rails try to fall off on one and the other seems to lose power a lot.
 
On the topic of paper planes, PAPER PLANES WITH BAMBOO SKEWERS TAPED TO THEM ARE DANGEROUS! (I did it, and put a hole in a wall [it was a small one too])

On the topic of cheap ways to scratchbuild stuff, usually a lot of household items (such as empty quik-oats containers) that look like tanks, can be turned into tanks with a little paint, skewers (or dowels), and glue.


And on the subject of model train engines, I think that the least compicated engine is the most reliable. I have two Broadway limited engines and some Bachmann trains. (they were both made in China) Guess which one broke first?

The Broadway Limited's broke first. They still run, but the rails try to fall off on one and the other seems to lose power a lot.
A high end engine should not break, unless you improperly maintain them or abuse them. Please tell me you oil them with the correct oil on a routine schedule, as well as clean the wheels.

No train will run well if they are not maintained.
 
A high end engine should not break, unless you improperly maintain them or abuse them. Please tell me you oil them with the correct oil on a routine schedule, as well as clean the wheels.

No train will run well if they are not maintained.

Does the rails falling off when I take it out of the box NEW count as misuse?
Also, I don't know how to clean train wheels. (and it may be a cracked-gear problem, not a dirt problem)

Also, this is off topic. (and BLI is NOT a rip-off)

The topic was on scenery that could be scratchbuilt for less money than if one went to a hobby shop. (such as tanks, outhouses, oil drums, woodpiles, silos... and much much more)
 
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You can also save money with things you buy. Years ago I had an N sclale layout for which I wanted trees, I eventually bought some HO sclale trees and snipped off the branches to make trees for my N scale. Using two or three branches tied together looked very good in N scale.

Cheers,
Bill69
 
Does the rails falling off when I take it out of the box NEW count as misuse?
Also, I don't know how to clean train wheels. (and it may be a cracked-gear problem, not a dirt problem)

Also, this is off topic. (and BLI is NOT a rip-off)

The topic was on scenery that could be scratchbuilt for less money than if one went to a hobby shop. (such as tanks, outhouses, oil drums, woodpiles, silos... and much much more)
If you do not know how to clean the wheels of your trains, I would talk to your local hobby shop to find the best method suited for you as there are various options from alcohol to a powered cleaner gizmo. I have some engines that will pick up so much grease and oil left behind on the frequently used main line that the engine will have intermittent power loss. Clean wheels and track can do wonders. :)
 
If you do not know how to clean the wheels of your trains, I would talk to your local hobby shop to find the best method suited for you as there are various options from alcohol to a powered cleaner gizmo. I have some engines that will pick up so much grease and oil left behind on the frequently used main line that the engine will have intermittent power loss. Clean wheels and track can do wonders. :)

Also, I heard from the owner of an all-trains hobby shop not to oil model trains. (although I try to sometimes anyway)
Any reason for that, or is he just crazy?
(If that guy is here, I aplogize for that comment in advance)
 
The first thing I look at when buying a loco: if it has rubber traction tires ... I reject it ... they get slimey, gunk up, crack, need replacement, and rubbing alcohol can damage them.

Track must be cleaned with a bright boy abrasive track eraser, vaaccuummed cleaned with a brush attachment, in conjunction with an old toothbrush, then the railhead must be wiped with a small 2"x2" alcohol pad made of old bedsheet, material ... then vaaccuummed clean again ... every day or weekly operating session ... a plastic tarp over your layout will reduce dust, and grime from adhering to the railhead.

You can make a wheel cleaner with a alcohol pad, and attach wires to the loco motor, and power drive it, holding it still on the folded up, wet, alcohol pad.

QTips will leave tiny strings of cotton in the gears and bearings

Underno circumstances should sandpaper, or steel wool, be kept or used in the model RR room envionment

Labelle locomotive oil is the only lubicant, and should not be over oiled, and excess should be wiped clean with an alcohol pad.

I saw a guy at a hobby show that reworked the gearing of a cheap loco, and had them driving at 1 tie rate per minute, on pulse power
 
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Also, I heard from the owner of an all-trains hobby shop not to oil model trains. (although I try to sometimes anyway)
Any reason for that, or is he just crazy?
(If that guy is here, I aplogize for that comment in advance)
He was most likely talking about new trains, since pretty much every train I have seen comes pre oiled from the factory. As trains get a lot of use, you will need more oil. Normally the instructions included with the engine will tell you exactly where to oil it and how much oil to use.
 
Some of the newer plastics are oily plastic which is self-lubricating. This is used in gearboxes and other places where adding outside oil could be detrimental. Remember, oil doesn't sit in one place - it migrates slowly on to surfaces that we don't want the oil on and in such as on the tracks and down the shaft into the electrical parts of the locomotive.

John
 
He was most likely talking about new trains, since pretty much every train I have seen comes pre oiled from the factory. As trains get a lot of use, you will need more oil. Normally the instructions included with the engine will tell you exactly where to oil it and how much oil to use.

Yes Ryan is correct. Most quality new trains come preoiled: Athearn, Atlas, BLI etc..

However you still have to oil them from time to time. If you take care of your trains properly, they should function for many years. I got a Bachmann NS Sd40-2 for my

birthday eight years ago, i just added a new NCE silent running decoder, new cams, and new LED headlights. That thing runs better than some of my newer locos.
 
I agree on the age. Some of my locomotives are going on 46 years old and still operate. They don't look as nice, and don't have LED lights and fine detail, but it's cool to see the ancient locos operate. In all the years I had my N-scale layout, I only lost 4 locomotive, meaning they died. They were all cheap ones and had various issues right from the beginning. I'm sure if I had the capabilities of doing transplants, back then I could have gotten them operating again. Now it's too late do to other issues.

John
 
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