Maintaining my computer

So glad, My SSD just arrived. Can't wait to install it over the weekend. First, Before formatting my 7200rpm drive, I am going to run an antivirus scan and then a disk defragment. After that, back up all my important documents to the portable drive, clean out the computer, and begin using the SSD. Just waiting for TANE to arrive now.
 
Good luck with your install... :)

Your method will work if this is a fresh install, but if you want to do a clone setup, you can use the transfer utility. You plug your SSD into one SATA port and you keep your old hard drive in the other.

You then you power up your PC, ensure the drive can be seen in the BIOS, and if all is set reboot and let Windows load normally.

You now install the transfer software and follow the on-screen instructions.

Once all this is done, shutdown, change the cables, and drives around, and reboot into BIOS to ensure the SSD is now the primary drive and your old drive is in second position.

Your system will boot up now from the SSD.

The process is pretty painless, and takes less work than I explained here. :D

John
 
Thanks, I'll let you know how the process goes after I install it at the end of the weekend. So glad I kept extra sata cables, connectors and drive bays.
 
Awesome. SSD Installed. So far, I have the SSD set to IDE Channel 0 Master and the HDD set to IDE Channel 1 Master. The Drives are set to ACHI. Almost complete with the upgrade.
 
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I ran into a problem. Now that I have Windows 10 installed on the SSD, right before the logon screen, I get an error that says "Inaccessible Boot Device". Would anyone know how to fix this problem? I really hope that I did not damage my SSD. Now in my BIOS, none of the drives show up, (HDD, SSD and DVD drive)
 
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Check your boot order in BIOS. There are no masters or slaves in SATA. Double check the IDE/AHCI setting - you might have accidentally reset it after choosing Restore Failsafe Defaults, for example. Disconnect all drives except the SSD and see if it boots.
 
Check your boot order in BIOS. There are no masters or slaves in SATA. Double check the IDE/AHCI setting - you might have accidentally reset it after choosing Restore Failsafe Defaults, for example. Disconnect all drives except the SSD and see if it boots.

Thank you Nicky9499. I unplugged all the drives except the SSD. After that I went into the BIOS and changed the setting from ACHI to Native IDE. After performing this, I saved the settings and Windows 10 was able to start on my SSD. Do you know what the difference is between ACHI and Native IDE. Later on today, I am going to post a screenshot of my BIOS settings. When would it be okay to plug in the other drives in my computer?
 
Yes, once you've got it booting in a basic configuration you can reattach other devices. The boot drive should be connected to port 0 but this isn't compulsory. If you have multiple bootables drives (eg. USBs) you can set the order in which they boot from the BIOS BBS priorities page.

The main difference between IDE and SATA is the former - a much older standard - lacks some cool features like hotswapping and NCQ (makes IO a liitle bit faster). Doesn't really matter either way since you won't be unplugging your fast-as-hell SSD while it's powered anyway. ;)
 
Nice. Success :cool:My first SSD. This Samsung 850 Evo is amazing. My system took 20 seconds to boot instead of a minute. Gonna stick to SSD's from now on and use the HDD's as extra storage. Thank you so much everyone for helping me with my computer upgrade. I gave myself a little break from the computer yesterday and gave it another try earlier this evening. Everything is working now. My first boot device is the hard disk, followed by the USB-HDD, then the USB-CDROM. I really appreciate everyone helping me with this and giving me suggestions and tips with the upgrade. I created my own fix for getting the SSD inside computer the case since I took apart the 3.5" drive bay connections. Right now, the SSD sits below the HDD. I purchased a 2.5" adapter and mounted it to my 3.5" bracket by the way of zipties and duct tape. Below are pictures of my BIOS configuration and drive setup. Just waiting for TANE to arrive now :)





 
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Good evening, I would like to thank everyone for helping me with the computer upgrade project. I just installed TANE and for the most part it runs well. Definitely an upgrade from Trainz 2010. Still getting used to the new interface and how to use each of the tools. I gave it a test run on one of the routes and it runs well if the settings are dialed down. With TANE installed on my Samsung 850 Evo SSD, I adjusted the tree detail and shadow detail to ultra with the draw distance at max and my 2 GTX 500 series graphics cards came to a crawl with fps at about 5 or 10. A little bit of stuttering here and there but I am enjoying this simulator alot. This is taking place in build # 78667. When I dial my graphics settings similar to what I used in Trainz 2010, TANE runs smoothly between 30 and 40 fps. For now, this is good for me. Perhaps when I upgrade my GPU later this year or next year, I can increase the settings some more. Below is a screenshot of the first route I ran today. As soon as I get used to TANE, I will resume the Major Tri State Area Project. This is a great simulator so far. Thank you for helping me with this everyone. I really appreciate it. :)

 
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Congratulations on getting this all working!

That case interior looks very familiar with those rubber grommet holes. :)

Now that you have T:ANE installed, I highly recommend upgrading to SP1. SP1 offers more stability and better performance than you'll see with 78667.

Have no fear even I don't run at max draw distance with my GTX780Ti. I keep mine at 8000 m with all other sliders except for shadows and post processing on ultra. Shadows are on high and PP on low and achieve a good working environment.

John
 
Ran into an error with upgrading to SP1. On the "MyTrainz" page. There are three download links. The first two links show download T:ANE from the USA download servers. The third link show download T:ANE online installer. I think I might have done something wrong. Currently, my build # is 78667. When I clicked, "checked for T:ANE updates" under the general tab in the trainz settings, it showed that there were no updates available. I ran the online installer, and after I ran the T:ANE SP1 online installer, a dialog showed "no patch currently available for this product". I then ran the offline installer and I then checked the N3V games folder in the program files folder. The T:ANE application icon in my programs file folder shows build 80349 but the TANE application icon on my desktop still shows build 78667. What would be the correct way to upgrade to SP1 from build # 78667?
 
Sounds like you re-named the desktop icon as it doesn't show any build number by default? What happens when you click it as in what build is on the launcher?
 
The desktop icon is the same. When I click on the desktop icon, the dialog appears showing the options to start trainz, manage content, trainz settings and purchase content. The build number on the launcher is 78667. Within the N3V games folder in the Program files, there is also a TANE icon. When I click that TANE icon, another launcher shows the options to start trainz, then it has SP1 in the lower right hand corner with the build number, 80349
 
You installed a full version not an update patch so you now have two installs. Suggest you set up a shortcut for the SP1 install and change the data location to wherever you old install was then run a database rebuild before deleting anything.
 
I checked the control panel and just noticed both installs of T:ANE. Would it be okay to uninstall completely uninstall both of them completely and then reinstall? What would be the correct method to install build 78667 and then upgrade to SP1? There is an online installer, offline installer, and then the check for T:ANE updates in the TANE launcher.
 
It's a good idea to crack it open and vacuum out the dust. It can get into your computer's components and short out circuit boards and is generally a nasty situation. Dust can also build up on the air inlets and block the air fro cooling the processor, hard drives and mother board. I use a small shop vac with micro-tools that are made of nonconductive materials and produces light suction. I also have cats that like to sleep on the system case because it's warm there. I have to clean it out about once a month. To clean it, turn it off, unplug it from the wall and open the system case. then suck away all the grime. your computer and games will love you for it.
 
Cool. So far, I am really enjoying SP1. TANE is most definitely a great simulator. The graphics capabilities of the new engine are amazing. Surprisingly, with the default graphics settings, TANE SP1 is running smooth with the GTX 570 + GTX 550Ti. SSD is most definitely the way to go with Trainz. I ran a locomotive on a 5 mile portion of track on the Edinburgh route and it ran very smooth. Barely any stutter or microstutter. Amazing :) My GTX 570 gets between hot and very hot though after about 20 or 30 minutes of running TANE. Is it normal for this card to get hot temperatures when running applications like Trainz. This card alone requires 219 watts out of the system.
 
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