Braking w/ RailDriver -Newcommer needs help please.

[bigalbklyn]

Braking w/ RailDriver -Newcomer needs help please.

Hi everyone:

I'm sure this will be the first of many pleas for advice. Would someone please explain to me how to brake a diesel properly using RailDriver. Any links to explanations of the braking system would also be appreciated.
Thanks,
BigAl
Colorado, USA

 

[karl2003]

Well it all depends on if your pulling a long load behind you same goes for a steamer.

if your pulling quite a heavy load behind you then i would think about braking quite early depending on where you want to stop

ok say your going 70mph then you have to leave yourself enuff time to allow the train to come to a complete stop so slowing the train down like when your half way there would be a good idea.as a heavyer train load will always make your stopping distance longer. If its just the loco then its much easyer to stop it just remember to hold off on the power if your going to apply the brakes...Im not sure how it works in trainz but im pretty sure if your going to stop you dont want ursef in a gear or using any power so.......Stop everything apply the brakes slowly and you should be ok but might take some time getting used to it.

Karl

 

[bigalbklyn]

Thanks Karl, but what I really need is an explanetion of all the different brake levers using RailDriver with cab control. Dynamic, automatic, independent, lap. I don't know which lever to use when.

Alan

 

[backyard]

Hello BigAl, in Brooklyn...

I have one right here, in between keyboard, and monitor...

To start, put reverser in neutral, push the auto-brake handle forward, and throttle in straight-up position. This is to be done before you open a route, in Driver or Quick Drive mode....

Opening Driver, or opening via Quick drive in Surveyor you won't have a runaway....

Pay attention to the Heads Up-Display(HUD) whilst in Driver. It gives main reservoir pressure, brake-pipe pressure, speed, throttle position, etc....

The basic principle, is when the brakes are released, the locomotive rolls, when applied, they stop the movement, reflected on the HUD, as well as your RD LED speed display(As in 295mph, on the MAGLEV Project!)....

The throttle increases the speed of the motor/generator/alternator, producing electricity, or in electric motors, to pull the train....

Power has to come from somewhere, and the fuel source, must be easy accessed.

To stop a train rolling, place the throttle in Dynamic, and watch you rate of speed descending down. The best thing about RailDriver, is that you can regulate braking, which changes from moment to moment using loco equipped desktop accelerometers on speed-acceleration per minute.

You use the dynamic brake before you use air, in braking a train. If the train speed increases a half mph whilst in dynamic braking, make an initial application of 20-30 psi using the Auto Brake.

I know about Diesel-electric locomotives. Most of the comments, refer to D-e loco's.

Lap, is a term referenced to air equalisation.

There is a lever\knob called Independent Brake, the right lever, that reduces brake pipe pressure, slowing the locomotive. Use this whilst moving(shunting) or switching cars. You can use that lever for stopping locomotives, apart from the air brake.

You have a throttle position:number on the HUD.
0=park

You can place a locomotive, assign a Driver and ride along and pay attention to the locomotive controls whilst being operated by an AI Driver. Watch for signals, to get to know what to do and when.

Always, ride the route(called "road" by railroad workers), before you try to run the route. Crews must certify with a Roadmaster, before they can run a route without a "pilot" engineer, or the Road Forman of Engines.

Different transportation environments require different ways of operations...you must study the route your on, for about a week, before you take control of a locomotive.

You will make mistakes, learn from them. Remember, locomotives are operated by experienced people, who must re-certify every year, and are paid to do what they do...and we're voluntarily doing their job.!

The Alert, Sand and E-Stop don't function on my setup...yet.

Whilst in Cab Mode, you can use the Range switch, to change cab-views.

You can use Map View, to find turnouts ahead, and switch them using the Switch Ahead button, above Driver 7 button. It only works on the switch directly in front of you.

My Wiper switch is not configured to function Trainz locomotives.

Display Clock, doesn't work for me.

RailDriver, The Mother Of All Game Controllers!

RailDriver Product Manual A .pdf file.

Al Krug's Home Page Has tutorials. Here are is views on
the SD70MAC cab.

Railroad Facts & Figures by Al Krug, will be your tutorial guide, to teach you about the dynamics(means change) of train handling.

There is a RailDriver Forum at TrainSim.com

Let us know how you do, ask questions, etc.

I've got to tell you I'm editing this post really hard, so re-read often, and reply if necessary!

All Parked Locomotives:

• brakes set
• doors locked
• reverser removed
• Diesel engine shut down
• it is a sentence of not more than ten-years in state prison
• and/or fine of up to $10,000($=US)

For trespassing on private property of any unauthorised entry into a locomotive...I prefer RailDriver! ........

 

[Railwayz]

What brake when?

Hi bigalbklyn.

The handles you use most are the Reverser, Throttle and Automatic brake. The reverser is obvious: it reverses the direction the locomotive or train is travelling. Likewise the throttle is pretty self explanatory except a good driver would never "sweep the handle" from 1 notch to eight notch as this could cause the locomotive to stall or worse the sudden lurch and then snap back could brake couplers throught the train. Always start off in one or two notch until the train begins to roll and then incresae notches until the train is travelling at the desired speed. You might not need to use all eight notches depending on whether you are travelling uphill (more notches) or along the flat (usually around 4 notch or so). Before making a brake application you should reduce tha throttle to zero (called shutting off here in Australia).

The automatic brake handle (the T shaped one in the middle) applies the brakes on the train as opposed to the locomotive. This will tend to drag the locomotive to a stand along with the train. Just move the handle slowly forward until the train begins to slow down. If the train is travelling slowly you won't need as much brake to bring the train to a stop.

The smaller handle to the right of the automatic handle is the independent. This works the brakes on the locomotive only. You would not use this unless you were travelling without a train (light engine) or the train had already been stopped. When the train stops-with the automatic brake- you apply the independent and then you can release the automatic brakes which will pump up the brake pipe and release the brakes on the train but "hopefully" the brakes on the locomotives will be enough to hold the train still. If it's not you may have to reaply the automatic brakes especially if you are on a hill.

Dynamic braking works by using the motors on the locomotives to slow the train down usually when travelling downhill or along a gentle flat area. It works by reversing the flow of electricity around the traction motors on the axles similar to gearing down in a manual car. The dynamic brake is only good at certain speeds however and usually won't stop a train by itself. Move the handle to the dynamic handle forward to the setup positon and then wait approximately 10 seconds before moving forwrad slowly. This 10 second delay is to stop the train from suddenly having its motors reversed. When the train has slowed right down you then move the automatic brake handle forward slowly until the train stops and then move the independent brake handle forward to hold the train steady while you release the automatic brakes.

As to the term "lap". What this means is that when you make an automatic application of the brakes the brake pipe air will continue to drain out until there is none left unless you move the handle back to the lap position. This will keep the brakes on the train but also keeps some brake pipe air in the train. You can then move the handle forward to put the brake on harder if you wish and gives a smoother stop (very important when driving passenger trains). This is because the brake pipe contains enough air to put the brakes on several times and you usually don't need all of the air unless you go into emergency braking when all you care about is stopping the train! When the train has slowed down sufficiently the handle can be moved back to the release position. More modern locomotives have a self lapping brake valve which saves this step. I suggest you do a Google search on the Westinghouse brake system for further information on how the brakes work.

I hope this helps you. If you want any further help you can always message me.

Railwayz

 

[bigalbklyn]

Thank you all for the very useful information. I was either stopping my train too soon or too late, not making a good impression with the customers.

Only a couple more questions:
On the autobrake lever what do SUP & CS mean?
What is the range switch do?

Thanks again to all.
BigAl
Colorado, US

 

[Railwayz]

Big Al,

I'm pleased the information was useful. Stopping a train, especially a locomotive hauled train, is an art form that takes some practice. Mostly it depends on the weather conditions, the gradient, the speed of the train, the weight of the train and your knowledge of "The Road" as Backyard said. By this he means knowing where the signals are yards are located and where the stations are. Knwoing this you can plan when to begin braking the train. In Australia we call these the braking points and may be something as simple as the the 3rd right hand bend after farmer O'learys dairy farm. Generally this information gets passed down from Driver to Driver as newer Drivers learn the road. The trouble with a simulator is that you don't have another driver to show you. Keep practising and you'll become better. Sometimes stopping at the right spot just comes down to a bit of luck!

As for Sup and CS? Well Sup means Suppression which you'll only find on these sort of desktop brake controllers. I'll look for an easy way to explain this to you and post it later. As for CS I'll likewise have to refresh my memory. It's been a long time since I drove a train with a 30CDW brake valve (the type that the Raildriver controller is based on).

Multiple Unit diesel and electric trains are a lot easy to drive since the brakes on these apply and release a lot quicker than locomotive hauled trains. Perhaps driving one of these over a road the first couple of times might help you to learn the route before tackling a heavy freight or fast passenger service.

Railwayz

 

[backyard]

It doesn't matter what cs or sup means...it's about application & release...

...when it all gets down to it.

Yes, having RailDriver, does make operating anything easier.

You have to have knowledge of air pressure, in case of braking, and ammeter gauge readings, read a few manuals, get to know the road you chose to become addicted to...(what else?)...and bear down to a few simulations of a day's work on that route!

Add to that, your knowledge of the locomotive you have chosen to drive, learning the what the engine picks up, and how well the braking system works, get a good enginesound, and a custom horn for the unit operated, and make sure the enginespec file is not for something more or less than the locomotive you have chosen.

Get all the config.txt files you can, for every car you have chosen for that "Consist Name." Edit each file, to reflect the actual mass, and load in kilograms, to ensure your trainz are loading chosen motive power.

Go to Surveyor, and select your chosen route...does it have track problems...kinks...streighten them out!

If you get a "Junction Missing Lever" note, trace the route you chose, and check that all junction levers, are placed inside the spline point rotating broken circle...sometimes this happens...

Placing the train on the route you know, run this train, and get to know what it will do on that route...using AIDriver Mode.

And then, make a short "session" of movements between points like track marks.

When you get to the point that you know the train well enough to be able to negotiate an opposing movement, write another train into your session.

Operate the new train, to accomplish tasks and not inflict a serious confrontation...they may have to stop, you may have to disable their movement, but learn from all the downtime, and make sessions that work!

That's all there is to my Trainz!

 

[Railwayz]

It doesn't matter what cs or sup means...it's about application & release...

"You have to have knowledge of air pressure, in case of braking, and ammeter gauge readings, read a few manuals, get to know the road you chose to become addicted to...(what else?)...and bear down to a few simulations of a day's work on that route!"

Absolutely correct Backyard. Master the above and above all have fun doing it!

Railwayz

 

[bigalbklyn]

Again thanks for all the info.

Would any of you care to suggest a route , (not too easy but not too difficult), for me to practice all this?

BigAl originally from Brooklyn now living in Centennial, CO

 

[backyard]

New to raildriver?

I don't see any realtime operating instruction going on, however check out how to use Rail Driver on You Tube.

 

[backyard]

You asked for training grounds...?

Try the Crawford Hill route, by 3801, at kuid2:3801:1001006:2

It is a severe grade, and you need to know that one six-axle loco at 3000 horsepower, rates 2000 tons.

A six-axle locomotive at 4000 or more horsepower, rates 2400 tons.

Take a loaded 140 car BNSF Bethgon coal train with 3 engines on front, and maybe a mid train helper, and total eight locos on the train.

You may install a train at Belmont, to go to Crawford, empty. It's a crowded route, with many trains daily. It's fun to pass the empty train, with 140 cars and two six-axle 4000 hp engines on front, and one on back, like BNSF.

When you get to Belmont siding, switch ends, and run the loaded train westbound back to Crawford, and only use dynamic braking, no air!

That's 17 miles one way, of real railroading, in TRAINZ!

TRAINZ RULES!

 

[Railwayz]

and only use dynamic braking, no air!

That's 17 miles one way, of real railroading, in TRAINZ!

Anyone can drive a train using dynamic! It's working it on air brake that's the real art.:hehe:

Railwayz

 

[backyard]

True...

Yes Railways!

I also note not all enginespec config files have dynamic braking enabled.

Some roads were slow to adapt to using DB, but today most all roads require the use of DB to slow or stop a train, to save brake shoes/pads.

Having driven trucks without an engine brake for more than 30 years, going downhill on air alone scares me, however I haven't run smoking brakes in Trainz yet.

You have sparked my interest in using air only, loaded off Crawford Hill...

 

[Railwayz]

You have sparked my interest in using air only, loaded off Crawford Hill...

Ahhhh! I love the smell of burning brake shoes in the morning! Here in Australia most of our main line locomotives are fitted with dynamic brake but some of the smaller branch line loco's never were. Note: although designated branch line loco's these engines are used all over the country mainly on main line trains. The NSWGR 48 class (included in TRS 2006) is a prime example.

When I was still driving freight trains before the Government took the easy way out and sold most of our railways, it was not unusual for some of our main line engines to have the dynamic brake cut out as there were no spares to fix them.

Even nowadays it is still required that a Driver works a train from Lithgow to Sydney down the Blue Mountains using air only at 40KM/H. Because of the numerous dips and rises it's an art applying and releasing the brakes at just the right time to keep the train moving without running away or delaying passenger trains. I wish I had the ability to model it in Trainz.

Railwayz

 

[backyard]

Good to hear from a seasoned Driver...!

The facts show dynamic electric braking, has been around for about a century...

Newspaper print plants, built by the New York Times Regional Newspaper Group(NYTRNG), were designed with dynamic braking, all over the US-America, just to control the speed of the press, to provide the "Grey Ole' Lady" to daily and mail subscription subscribers.

I can't pinpoint the first locomotive to provide dynamic braking, but our locomotives built in the late 40's and early fifties were so equipped with DB.

In the Southeastern United States of America, the Louisville & Nashville Railroad, ordered DB equipped locomotives about 1960.

The Seaboard Air Line, ordered RS11 ALCo loco's with DB. in mint green. The Seaboard(SAL) received GP18 loco's with DB.

The Atlantic Coast Line, only started with the GP35. The L & N, recieved several GP35 engines without DB, and that fleet was the start of the second generation of locomotives.

The Southern Railway System, recieved many GP7 & GP9 engines with dynamics.

In the Southeastern USA, relatively flat terrain was operated on air brake.

There were two classes of engineer, four & six axle.

The four axle guys(mates), were not accustom to DB.

It did take the formulation of the convergence of roads, to make dynamic braking part of a road trip.


I have run the Crawford Hill Route, on air today...

A 140 car ACF Center-flow hopper train loaded with corn, at 104,000kg per car train, with six World of Trainz 4400hp loco's..

As a first run, I needed to know the route better, as a 70psi reduction was needed several times, to keep the train in check.

The terrain you describe as up and down grade, is called "rip-rap" terrain by our drivers.

RailDriver, is hard to find a selection of brake pipe reduction between release, and 70psi.

You REALLY need to know the route, to keep the train as we call it "in check."

Thanks Railwayz, for your advice, and anecdote to this scenario.

Let's run Trainz!

 

[bigalbklyn]

Hi all:

I just returned from a long business trip. I will be downloading the Crawford route and practice with it. I've read the on line tutorials on air brakes, traction, etc and have them printed out for reference.

I will let you all know how it goes.
Thanks,
Alan

 

[Railwayz]

Welcome back bigalbklyn. Just remember that heavy trains on falling grades requires slow and steady handling. Don't wait until the train reaches the speed limit to put the brakes on or you'll run over the speed Limit. If it is a steep hill then put the brakes on around 10 Km/h before you rezach the speed limit for the track. You might have to experiment with this figure a little depending on the braking ability of the train.

Backyard,

Most of our early locomotives were Alco types manufactured under license and were originally fitted with dynamic brake. Towards the end of their Government lives however they just were not repaired and eventually fell apart. If I had some time I could probably find out which of our loco's was the first class fitted with dynamic and I might set myself the task.

Another route I wish was available is the section of line from Moss Vale in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales which runs across to Unanderra on the east coast. Even using dynamic braking the speed limits for frieght trains is 20 Km/H and the brake pipe is never full for over an hour and a half.

Railwayz