Routebuilding tips?

alexl102

Learning... slowly!
Hi guys,

Is there anywhere I can get tips on building a decent route in Trainz? I've started to build one of my own based in the north of England but I'm struggling with a few aspects of it...

I'd like to have a go at modelling a real place but as a mac user, TransDEM isn't available to me, so firstly I'm wondering if there's any other ways to create a kind of template to work from.

Secondly, the ground paint tool seems to be terribly innaccurate and aside from using the square fill (which can only be used in line wiht the grid) there's no way to accurately paint a small area. Am I missing something?

It's also really difficult to model landscapes that aren't flat without bits of track being buried under the ground surface, or to make long steady gradients.

I realise a lot of this will take practise but I just wondered if anyone could offer any help?

Many thanks

Alex
 
You really don't need a DEM ... as when you do have a DEM ... the gradients become a nightmare, and control your life !

I could help you with making 1x1 km basemaps if you tell me of the starting point, and ending point, of your route

Textures conform to the 10x10 baseboard grid and make a saw tooth paintbrush edge

Setting the "radius" and "sensitivity" to minimum", helps reduce this jagged texturing effect ... as it does when making hills and mountains
 
Alex,

My recommendation is to start small. I know it's great to think big and want to build the world of your grandest dreams, but both mentally and physically it will be too much as doing this is quite overpowering.

So start small and build this route as a learning project. My original route, which is now still a kernel of my current big route, started out as a six baseboard route. My track laying was really awful and my texturing was quite deplorable. Recently I came across a backup copy of version 2.0 done in TRS2004, and laughed at my route building! But I will say, I learned a lot from those early days and the trials I went through to achieve what I wanted then is quite amazing. Yes, I had some good ideas and carried them through.

Making hills can be a pain, but there are some things you might want to try:

Raise up a blob of terrain, however, and you need to practice and fiddle with sensitivity settings. The problem is the tools are too drastic and fast which causes the hills to grow too quickly. By setting the sensitivity up or down, you can make hills slowly and carefully. I find when I'm raising and lowering terrain with these tools, and texturing too, they seem to work better for me if I zoom out a bit. The smaller cursor at the higher elevation off the landscape is easier to control. Give this a try too and see if it works for you. Once you get a hill in place, you need to soften the sides. Use the plateau tool and run that along the sides. This will also smooth out those jaggy edges you get when you smooth a track bed. You'll have to raise, smooth, raise smooth, and repeat multiple times to get the hills you want.

In addition to these topology tools, make use of road splines. Yes, lay out a bunch of splines from the top of a hill to the bottom, don't click on the circles to tighten them up. Then click the smooth terrain under the road splines. What this will do is create smooth slopes into valleys. Also use the splines to create beaches and waterfronts as you can raise or lower an end and then smooth the ground up under them.

As Roy and Cascade say here, there's no need to use TransDEM to create terrain. If you want to create a lot of terrain quickly, use those displacement maps. Yes, you can import greyscale images, even clone one of the built-ins and bring in your own images you've created in your favorite image editor. Once you have the images you like, you can then fill a selected area and raise or lower the terrain to your liking in one shot. It takes some practice to stretch this over a baseboard or two, or three, but it works quite nice. With the area filled, and terrain raised, once you lay your track and texture the ground, no one would know it came from a displacement map.

Texturing too can be a pain, but again work slowly at it and in small areas at a time. With this too, you need to work small. Find a base texture, a ground texture is good, then put your grass and other textures on top. I find this produces better results than painting lots of textures on the grid. You'll find that rotating the textures using the [ ] keys is quite useful for some textures, while those created from photos look horrible. With these photo textures, use smallest areas of them and paint other textures into them. Greens next to yellows, blended into browns works well.

Speaking of blending... I find if I use quick mouse movements rather than slow movements, I can get a transparent blending of textures. This is great when trying to get the grass near the tracks to come out right.

And speaking of ballast... I find this goes down better after I've put the grass or other textures down. One of my things is to use a dark, cinder-like, ballast as a first layer, then use a newer granite or limestone ballast that matches my track on top of that. I put the darker ballast down wider and the granite on top closer to the tracks. This is much in keeping with how the tracks were laid in my area. Up until WWII, the local railroad used cinders instead of granite ballast on its mainline. This is why we have cinders, I guess, in the gutters and still in the yards.

For tracks... It's a pain trying to blend rusty rails into mainlines, but it can be done. The choice of track is something that you need to pick. You may end up replacing track numerous times as you go from one content creator to another. It took me several tries to get my tracks of choice, and then even now I still look around for something that will blend nicely from rusty and old to brand spanking new and shiny for the mainline. I have gone as far as to retexture, with moderate to poor success, rusty track with lighter ballast so that the two kinds of track blend better. In general rusty track goes in my yards and on less than used often sidings.

Track and roads, footpaths, and dirt paths, present another problem unto themselves. The problem is some of them float above the terrain. This has always been a peeve of mine since I discovered Trainz in December 2003. I've spent more time lowering track and roads a tiny bit, maybe .23 meters or less, so that the splines at least are in contact with the ground. Some of the newer track doesn't have that problem though so you might want to try that first before looking at the older stuff.

Anyway keep these tips in mind. Plan on scrapping your first route, or if it's good enough, use it as part of a growing empire.
 
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As John says start small and experiment with different techniques. Even consider just doing a station or yard area, perhaps with a fictional "dumbbell" loop at either end to return the trains. Maybe take a model or miniature railway plan and expand it slightly. That will help with the terrain for, just as on a real model, the ground fits around the track rather than the other way around. For your first attempt, pick something that is relatively flat or has easy gradients so you're not overcomplicating things.

Terrain painting in Trainz is actually quite easy compared to sticking down postage stamps in MSTS or the blobby mess that is TS20xx. One important thing to note, is that once you've created a decent swirl and blend, you can copy that area and apply it elsewhere to get a large area done quickly. Pick textures carefully, there are some good ones built in and on the DLS but equally there are - as noted above - ones which purport to be photorealistic but don't look at all good in the sim whether swirled or not. Generally, the plainer the texture the better. The grass textures created by clam1952 are very good as are the ones by masontaylor though not all of these display correctly in TANE (checkerboard effect). There's also a range called Ultra by author McGuirrel and some of those are worth playing around with.

As regards track, look for some that list "rare use" or similar in the title. These are easier to work in with rusty track or a good substitute for rusty rail when used with shiny rail as the contrast is more subtle.
 
One of the most useful tools is, holding down on the Shift KB key when dragging track splines, when laying tracks, so's they don't click together like a maganets'

(Rather than just hitting the "Insert Spline Point" button) You can place a precision spline point location, by laying a temporary track on that desired exact location, you can get it down to a accuracy tolerance of a couple inch's ... then you delete the temporary track, and the precision spline point remains there

And measuring turnouts, and crossovers in Google Earth, and making Trainz crossovers prototypical, @ 270' (82.296m) from spline point, to spline point, using the Trainz measurement ruler
 
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You measure each area turnouts on Google Earth ... the East Broad Top NG 36" RR may have 120', whereas the high speed interlocking at Cresson on the mainline has 270'
 
Thank you for the Tip on the Base for Track, that is going to look great in certain area of the Routes. Learn something new every day I peruse this forum.
 
Alex,

As Roy and Cascade say here, there's no need to use TransDEM to create terrain. If you want to create a lot of terrain quickly, use those displacement maps. Yes, you can import grey scale images, even clone one of the built-ins and bring in your own images you've created in your favorite image editor. Once you have the images you like, you can then fill a selected area and raise or lower the terrain to your liking in one shot. It takes some practice to stretch this over a baseboard or two, or three, but it works quite nice. With the area filled, and terrain raised, once you lay your track and texture the ground, no one would know it came from a displacement map.

Texturing too can be a pain, but again work slowly at it and in small areas at a time. With this too, you need to work small. Find a base texture, a ground texture is good, then put your grass and other textures on top. I find this produces better results than painting lots of textures on the grid. You'll find that rotating the textures using the [ ] keys is quite useful for some textures, while those created from photos look horrible. With these photo textures, use smallest areas of them and paint other textures into them. Greens next to yellows, blended into browns works well.
.

Anyway keep these tips in mind. Plan on scrapping your first route, or if it's good enough, use it as part of a growing empire.

Hello JCitron,

Need some more info on this: "use those displacement maps" in your reference, where can I find out more about displacement maps, or is this something I need TransDEM for, I understand TransDEM I don't own it, and rather create my own Routes.

I like Mountains and Hills a lot, but have problems making them look more realistic, and I thought if I could understand your displacement maps, might help me......I hope I explained my self?
 
Hello JCitron,

Need some more info on this: "use those displacement maps" in your reference, where can I find out more about displacement maps, or is this something I need TransDEM for, I understand TransDEM I don't own it, and rather create my own Routes.

I like Mountains and Hills a lot, but have problems making them look more realistic, and I thought if I could understand your displacement maps, might help me......I hope I explained my self?

Well explained, Blue! These will make things a lot easier for making hills in one shot.

There's a bunch of displacement maps already in Trainz, dating back some years now.

If you click on the Topology tool then click on Advanced, you'll see a picture and scroll box, which is set to none initially.

Scroll the arrows or click on 'none', and you'll see a list of various displacements.

Once you choose one, you then select the area where you want to fill the grid. Using the CTRL and mouse, with the cursor positioned in one corner, you can drag the outline over a larger area such as a single baseboard. I've actually done this over multiple baseboards, but it takes a bit of practice.

Once you've got the area filled, you then click the fill area button and the area is filled.

The threshold of course sets the strength a higher threshold gives taller mountains and deeper valleys.
 
Thank you JCitron,

I tried it out, and I also learned how to paint a whole Square with fill Grid Command.....IT works great, and like you say, practice makes a difference I did several rounds of the Mountain ones, amazing and quick, I was able to do 3 Baseboards, which I notice looks better when there stretched out over 2 or 3 tiles.......

This is going to save me some serious Texture and Ground building time and it looks way more better than I can freehand it in.

Was just thinking saw these once when I first bought TS-12 and didn't know what they were for, as I was overwhelmed with TS-12 being new to it and.
 
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