Australian screenshots

[lesley]

I built/modified it (Original by ad602000). It is still in Alpha and wont be released for a while

Tom

 

[lesley]

T394 sits in Waubra Yard with a goods. A rare sight is MB2 which was attached to carry some naughty bulls

The train seen departing (Was lucky to wake up and grab these shots, it was 5 in the morning :hehe

Tom

 

[lesley]

A couple of NSW Shots:

6006 on a goods at Cowarie.

Again along the line.

A couple from back in Vic:

A N Class with yet another regular V/Line Service.

This picture shows recently converted PH. A little too shiny?

Tom

 

[0099]

Some more shall i ( Im addicted again )

NR+NR+BL lead a Melbourne bound express freight through the countryside.

Crossing a small river.

Mmmmmm Grasstastic

Yes thats what the route will be like .


Anthony

 

[comtrain]

I built/modified it (Original by ad602000). It is still in Alpha and wont be released for a while

Tom

Tom you guys worked quickly on the DH
But I wonder what we can do about the N Class textures. Just like in your screenies they look flat and over saturated. Would really like to hear what davido or natvander think because their Candy schemes would do the same thing, and they don't. I think we are missing something here
Cheers
Rod

 

[Natvander]

Tom you guys worked quickly on the DH
But I wonder what we can do about the N Class textures. Just like in your screenies they look flat and over saturated. Would really like to hear what davido or natvander think because their Candy schemes would do the same thing, and they don't. I think we are missing something here
Cheers
Rod

Firstly you should calibrate your monitor (if you can) so that the colour you see really is that colour.

Second, don't just get the paintdropper and rely on grabbing colour from photos or even swabs (colour values from paint companies for example). You start with these colours, take them into the game and then work on them so they look right. Most need serious toning down before they look close (white is a perfect example).

Third, once the colour looks right, apply grime, dirt, dust, rust and shadow. These give the texture body, but must be applied gradually so as not to overdo it.

Fourth, when texturing the interior, it has to be dark. In some cases 50% or more darker that the actual colour. To see what I'm getting at, have a look at some pics of rollingstock and look inside the windows.

 

[Ghostryder]

Couple of shots from my work in porgress


Drivers View of Milton.


Approaching Swann Rd Cutting


Swann Rd Cutting

Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

Cheers

Ghosty

 

[Davido]

Tom you guys worked quickly on the DH
But I wonder what we can do about the N Class textures. Just like in your screenies they look flat and over saturated. Would really like to hear what davido or natvander think because their Candy schemes would do the same thing, and they don't. I think we are missing something here
Cheers
Rod

Nat and I argued over the candy colour scheme for ages (nearly came to blows and the parting of the ways ).
Having a colour calibrated monitor is handy but the best thing I can suggest is to look at photo's of the subject, there are some fantastic sites online for this, take notice of the weathering, shadows, highlights, buckling of panels etc.
I reckon if you're looking at a photo on the same monitor you are texturing on and you get the colours looking the same and the photo's a reasonable colour reproduction, you gotta be close.
Use a separate layer in your paint package for grime and shadows etc, so you don't end up destroying your original texture, and experiment. Layers are your friend and so is the undo button
I often put grime on dark and then decrease the opacity of the layer till I get it looking the way I want (or is that the way Nat wants ).
As Nat says get it looking right in game/sim and don't worry too much about the official RGB's of the colour scheme.
Get an eye for detail......look at the photo see how the light falls, where the grime collects, where the shadows are then go and do the same to your model.

Cheers
Davido

 

[0099]

Talking about paint schemes and all that , Have you guys at CWS ever throught about heavily weathered versions of your locos ? Id love to see your PN 81's all grimy and half black down the sides .

 

[0099]

Love those screenshots Anthony. Very nice scenery and texture work. Post up some more pics for us - bigger ones please!

Okies Big Enough ?

8223 & 8205 Haul 32 loaded hoppers with a final destination of ( Where ever they unload coal in Sydney:hehe: )

 

[comtrain]

Really nice textures are not that easy but damn important...

Thank you Nat and David.
I am doing a really quick education course on texturing, and I value your opinions and of course I have another 10 or so at Victrainz that will help
Appreciate your time
Cheers
Rod

 

[Davido]

Have you guys at CWS ever thought about heavily weathered versions of your locos ?

Ummm ....nope, we like middle of the (rail)road

Whoops...this is a screenshots thread, better post one then

 

[Natvander]

One last point that I forgot to make (and something Dave and I found out the hard way - read the candy comment), and refers to why it's so important not to rely on just grabbing colours from pics. The game renders colours slightly different in game to what you see in your paint program. The colours are generally more vibrant and saturated in game.

Also, different assets handle colours differently, especially splines. To see what I mean, grab a ground texture and apply it to a scenery item and a spline and place them all in game to see the difference.

I can't stress enough the point of calibrating your monitor's colour. Of course monitor calibration hardware/software is quite expensive, but if you take/print photographs on a regular basis you have a good excuse to get one Adobe have a gamma/colour correction program that I believe is included with Photoshop Elements. It's not nearly as good as a calibrator, but it most certainly improves what you see, and is easy to use.

The reason why your monitor should be calibrated is so that the colours you use are 'correct', in that what you see on your monitor should be at least very close to what someone sees on their own monitor. If your monitor is out of calibration, all your colours are going to be off and will be further off on someone elses monitor.

 

[comtrain]

One last point that I forgot to make ....

Please read full message above>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The reason why your monitor should be calibrated is so that the colours you use are 'correct', in that what you see on your monitor should be at least very close to what someone sees on their own monitor. If your monitor is out of calibration, all your colours are going to be off and will be further off on someone elses monitor.

Thanks Nat, that sounds like it should too.
Now as I have got rid of my big CRT monitor, and invested in a flat screen I may have caused problems for my self.
When I read all the reviews AFTER I bought the 22" Wide screen LCD, I find it has supposed to have all sorts of problems with white and black. However I do not find it a problem and I find the colors to be fine.
Cheers
Rod

 

[Natvander]

Apparently early flatscreen monitors had problems accurately displaying colour (hence why many print labs continued to use CRT), but newer screens are much much more accurate.

 

[Willem2]

2 QR coal trains going through town on a Sunday morning,

A view up the main street

cars pulling up at the Railway Hotel

Beer o'clock, time to go.

Cheers,

Bill.

 

[Ackazacka]

Here we go,

Hi all, my first attempt at posting screenshots and it is a crash

a big clean up in progress

can't keep the news crews away

Hope you like them,


Zack

 

[0099]

Not bad Zack not bad at all.

 

[Electro]

Ackazacka very good screen shots

 

[demon_eric]

dude that is really funny umm.. who fell asleep at the control