Proper Braking Techniques

[nuni727]

I have already gotten familiar with the brakes on locomotives and what each one does, I would just like to know your braking techniques. For example, do you apply the independent first and then the dynamic or the other way around? It could be for diesel or steam.

 

[colourlight]

I use the train brake whan driving British trains because it applies and discharges reasonably quickly. The train brake on American trains for example, takes forever to apply and discharge compared to British trains so I use the lovomotive brake (E Key) and if that isn,t enough, put it in reverse with usually notch 4 throttle. Totally unprofessional but as it works, I don,t care.

 

[817TAYLOR]

if I do any switching operations I souly use indipendant
like on the VMD SP SD9
I just use the indipendant and it works fine for me

when I need to stop in a hurry in cab mode, I noticed that if I put the train brake on emergency and kill the throttle and put the reverser in the opposite position I am moving
it stops alot faster than if I leave the reverser in the direction of travel
-Taylor

 

[gearhead2578]

Keep you eyes open and brake early - with the train brake if you're not switching. I use the Dynamic first if I'm over about 20mph and start braking around half mile or so before the stop in steps using the train brake (initial apply). I don't fully apply until about 0.05 mile before the stop...... But then again I'm (trying) to be as proto as I can with it It's just like a truck IRL though and there's no 2 situations that are the same.

Mike

 

[BobCass]

gearhead got the right Idea about Dynamics use first and let the cars gather behind you and then do your other braking..

 

[Bob5446]

Interesting thread! I thought the idea was to keep the train stretched and apply the train brake first (before the dynamics) so the slack did'nt run in and knock you off your seat (or worse de-rail you)?

 

[cascaderailroad]

Probably on a prototype train you would apply the entire train brakes, partially ... and with the loco throttle off, gradually let the slack run in slowly ... then apply the dynamic braking to further run in the slack.

I would think if you applied the loco independant brakes only, the slack would run in violently !

I find that with a 100 car loaded coal that if you train brake to below a running speed of 25 mph, and release brake, and by the time the brakes fully release you are down to @ 15mph ... then apply the full dynamics to throttle 5 position, or half dynamics to throttle 10 position ... and you still have to make 2-3 train service brake applications on a 10 mile 1.75% downhill grade.

In Trainz it seems to make little difference, unless you are running realistic derailment setting, with realistic coupler breakage rules applied.

 

[gearhead2578]

......In Trainz it seems to make little difference, unless you are running realistic derailment setting, with realistic coupler breakage rules applied.

Is there any other way to run??

 

[cascaderailroad]

Sure ... You can set derailment to realistic ... and coupler breakage to realistic ... then you will have more than enough derailments, and coupler breakage galore, more than you ever wanted ... myself, I hate derailments, and coupler breakage.

 

[kamran]

in case of both with train or only locomotive.independent brake is more effective to me.but this depends on physics of loco you are driving

 

[JJstrainz]

The SOP on the ATSF is to apply dynamics first and then if that doesn't slow you down as fast use train brakes, or independent brakes because when you use train brakes the dynamics are shut down as a safety feature.
JJstrainz

 

[cascaderailroad]

Independent brake is for the locomotive consists only, as applying it on a long train would cause rapid coupler slack run in, hitting the loco in the butt with all the many railcars bunching up behind it.

 

[ccowan2126]

DCC all the way !!:hehe:

 

[johnwhelan]

DCC all the way !!:hehe:

I'm glad someone else is into DCC as well.

Cheerio John

 

[Vern]

Well the braking in Trainz, even in cab mode, is greatly simplified compared to real life. For starters, only one braking type is really modelled - that for old style US freights. Nothing to represent vacuum brakes or the stepped braking found on some locos and most MU's (the latter tending to use EP braking). The Russian diesels train brakes don't work at all so you have to drive using the straight air (loco) brake only. Even using the given system it is very hard to make a gradual application or just feather the brakes for a slight reduction in speed.

That said, it is better than MSTS or Railworks with their "%" based brake applications, though the latter has managed to put stepped braking on some of the traction units.

 

[nysvrwx]

I tend to try for about 20 lbs on initial, and run up the dyn brake. Then at about 20 cut that off and go to full apply.
If it's just a loco, I use ind brake until I'm going to park it.
I have been known to do the 'throw it in reverse' trick others mentioned, which I'm pretty sure would damage a real engine (anyone know?).
In some cases I do all of the above, and scream "Oh God, we're all gonna die!" to which my conductor says "Well, if that happens, let me know."
Steph

 

[cascaderailroad]

Driving in CAB mode requires the forethought, and advanced planning, that a real engineer possesses... requiring a physical feel of what the loco is doing, usually keeping the speed under 15 mph, when a stop is needed 1 mile distant, and applying brakes well before the stop. Dynamic braking is best when a train speed is under 35 mph.

 

[JJstrainz]

If you throw it in reverse while going forward on diesel engines you would fry the traction motors, rendering that loco useless. You would be creating a host of problems for yourself. I have TRS2006 and UTC and before I got TRS2006 Cabview was the way I went. Not so much with TRS2006.....

 

[Railwayz]

Okay, here's the way I was taught to brake a train IRL. As you top over the grade you set up the dynamic for a few seconds similar to gearing down in a car. This will allow the slack in the couplers to slowly run in (bunch up) as the train crests the gradient. Do not be concerned if speed drops as you get near the top, use the gradient to your advantage and it is less you will have to wipe off later. As speed increases down the gradient then increase the dynamic setting. If it is a steep gradient don't expect dynamic alone to hold the train speed, you will need to use the train brakes. Vary the dynamic setting and the train brake setting to maintain the speed. Remember that you have to predict things a bit to allow time for the air and mechanical portions of the brake system to do their job. Only use the independent brake when the train has stopped or running as locomotive only (light engine) or when shunting a train. The reason for that is that when shunting not all wagons may have the brakes cut in and speeds are generally low enough to allow the consist to stop quickly and has little inertia to overcome.

Railwayz

 

[norfolksouthern37]

wow... some of this thread... just wow.