Hey all, I need some advice on G scale modeling. I have lately been thinking of creating a SD18, SD9, or SD7 in G scale and need some advice on where to start. Would brass be the best material to construct one like this or are there various parts that can be readily obtained to build something like this? And yes, I'm planning to go all-out on this project---radio control/DCC, lights, sound, smoke, etc. So if you have any advice on this type of project or know where/how I can get the parts for this, post a reply here bc the more I think about this project the more I am wanting to get rolling with it.
Need some advice for a G scale model
- Thread starter haddock56
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I suggest you start with one of these.
http://www.usatrains.com/usatrainslocogp7.html
They are pretty nice.
http://www.usatrains.com/usatrainslocogp7.html
They are pretty nice.
Thanks. Its more the trucks and other stuff I'm trying to figure out. The GP7s and GP9s used Blomberg type trucks while the SD series used the (correct me if I'm wrong) Flexicoil trucks. I'll have to dig through my collection of ModelRailroader magazines.............there was something about that somewhere in there.
Funnily enough I'd thought of Ozark Miniatures, but I'm thinking the trucks could be custom ordered from USA Trains. I might end up using brass for the details, as I said before this is the most involved project I've ever attempted. I'm torn between an SP SD9 with the big oilcan headlight or a DM&IR high hood SD18 right now.
My advice: scour Ebay and/or the old-fashioned Model Railroad swap meets for a shell-less SD-series frame (USA Trains SD-40-2 or a Aristo-Craft SD45). It will have the proper 3-axle trucks to begin with (forget about trying to cram flexcoils under a GP-7 or -9 body...trust me, it doesn't work). Then you'll have to cut and shorten the frame, and either scavenge or chop up the fuel tank as well. Then it's styrene dust city for you, as you fabricate the long hood, cab, and nose of an SD-9 (or whatever you end up making): my advice would be to salvage a scrap GP7/9 body from the same place as the SD frame and use as much of that as possible, saving you construction time and Advil capsules.
Aristo Craft used to run ads a long time ago that featured a CofG SD-9 with "TBA" under it. It's actually re-appeared a couple times in Garden Railroader if I recall, but AFAIK has never been released properly.
Aristo Craft used to run ads a long time ago that featured a CofG SD-9 with "TBA" under it. It's actually re-appeared a couple times in Garden Railroader if I recall, but AFAIK has never been released properly.
Thanks Scott, I normally run in HO scale since N scale drives me up a wall. And getting used to the Digitrax DCC system.....................who the f*** invented that system?!?!?
That's the craziest one I ever saw (I know what to do on the MRC Prodigy Advanced, that's what I was taught on lol) I'm not heavily into G scale, I'm just aiming at one or two engines and maybe a couple pieces of rolling stock (like a combine and a couple passenger cars or something) and that's about it. Thanks Sawyer, I had planned on using the shell from a GP7 and the frame from an SD40-2, along with brass detailing (MU hoses, railings, all that stuff) and the other whole nine yards that's gonna go into this little gem (sound, radio/dcc control, lights, smoke, the whole works lol).you're very welcome: I did something similar to my old Bachmann 2-6-0 industrial mogul a while back: mostly a detailing job and another desperate attempt to get more weight on the frame so it could pull more than my tiny 4-wheel caboose around my grade-laden setup. Thankfully I now know not to do some of the idiotic things I did on that adventure again!
Just a thought, saw you talk about using digitrex. I have used this system on my outdoor layout. OK, here goes. Be aware that if you are using brass rail outside you have conductivity problems due to oxidation, not only can you lose power to the engine you also lose your signal overlay for your digitrex resulting in a lot of fowl language. I started using the stainless steel rail by Aristo Craft with much better results for track power. You still have to clean the rail, but your not fighting the oxidation problem, you do however have to use a good quality rail clamp as using the slip on clamps can cause problems, and soldiering is out. If you happen to be a relative of Bill Gates you could go with RC and batteries, which cost more than the locomotive. Or if you are Bill Gates, maybe live stem, They'll charge you $1200 just to look!
Funny you should mention the RC system, I planned to use NCE's DCC system or battery power. I plan on fitting one steam engine in G scale with Kadee's new Micro RC coupler servos. That plus a sound/DCC setup, lights, smoke, and a few detail parts would complete my projects in G scale. like I said, two engines that are custom built are far more worth to me than 5 or 6 out-of-the-box engines with minor modification.
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