A model railroad tip

If you are using track joiners, a very small flathead screwdriver is useful for almost anything relating to track and joiners.
-If the joiners won't fit on the rail, they can be bent to fit.
-If you need to remove joiners from track, you can push the joiners down the track with the screwdriver.
-If your screwdriver is heavy enough, you can use it as a hammer to pound in track nails.
-If you need to push a section of flex-track into another and you can't get enough leverage, try using the top of your screwdriver handle to push the rails.

A model railroad company could sell these for $30 as a "Trackwork Utility Tool", they are so useful.
 
If you are using track joiners, a very small flathead screwdriver is useful for almost anything relating to track and joiners.
-If the joiners won't fit on the rail, they can be bent to fit.
-If you need to remove joiners from track, you can push the joiners down the track with the screwdriver.
-If your screwdriver is heavy enough, you can use it as a hammer to pound in track nails.
-If you need to push a section of flex-track into another and you can't get enough leverage, try using the top of your screwdriver handle to push the rails.

A model railroad company could sell these for $30 as a "Trackwork Utility Tool", they are so useful.
I take you have never looked at the Micro Mark site.
If your hammering in nails, I feel sorry for you.
When working with full length sections of flex, remove two ties from each end, and solder the flex. This way the flex maintains the curve with no kinks. Also solder every joint.
Also needle nose pliers work better than a screw driver any day. Lastly, jewelers screw drivers work for a multitude of projects. They should be a must have for any layout.
 
Last edited:
If you are using track joiners, a very small flathead screwdriver is useful for almost anything relating to track and joiners.
-If the joiners won't fit on the rail, they can be bent to fit.
-If you need to remove joiners from track, you can push the joiners down the track with the screwdriver.
-If your screwdriver is heavy enough, you can use it as a hammer to pound in track nails.
-If you need to push a section of flex-track into another and you can't get enough leverage, try using the top of your screwdriver handle to push the rails.

A model railroad company could sell these for $30 as a "Trackwork Utility Tool", they are so useful.

12 Pack of varying sizes shapes and lengths, $30 at your local hardware store

Additional. uses:

  • Spare Fuse (Do not try at home)
  • Short Circuit!
  • Wall Darts (when trackwork gets to ya)
Those last two seen by fellow model railroaders I'm close to.
 
Last edited:
When working with full length sections of flex, remove two ties from each end, and solder the flex. This way the flex maintains the curve with no kinks. Also solder every joint
Use small diameter, high quality silver solder that has flux core, and use a brass bristle brush to clean off the inside rails of the railjoiner immediately while it is still molten. Reheat the outside rail if the railjoiner moved. You can use various things as a heat sink, such as big flat bladed electronics grounding alligator clips. A high wattage soldering gun may work, but use the low trigger setting. Before soldering, briskly polishing the rail, and railjoiner, with a brass bristle brush will ensure good solder flow. Never use acid plumbers solid core solder, or acid flux, as you would need baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Small 1" brads can help keep the curve in shape, to avoid kinks, by forcing the rail junction straight using @ 8 brads staggered inside and outside the rail joint area.
 
Last edited:
I considered using soldering, but I have never done it and an iron is too expen$ive. I would prefer to not try it on my model railroad and I would prefer to keep ¢o$t$ down.
 
Last edited:
I considered using soldering, but I have never done it and an iron is too expen$ive. I would prefer to not try it on my model railroad and I would prefer to keep ¢o$t$ down.
Too expensive? The one I've been using for the last several years set me back some 11.00 at Wal Mart. Please check your prices.
 
I probably should have done that before I started, but when I first went to the hobby store and bought everything, I wasn't aware that you could solder track.
 
I considered using soldering, but I have never done it and an iron is too expen$ive. I would prefer to not try it on my model railroad and I would prefer to keep ¢o$t$ down.

Soldering irons are not that expensive. If you still have a Radio Shack around, you can pick up one for about $8.00 or maybe $10.00 at the least, and maybe $20.00 at the most.

What you need then is some practice. Get some spare scrap rails and solder and practice, practice, and practice. Soldering is an art and requires a light touch and timing of the hot iron against the two pieces of metal. You then touch the solder to the hot metal, with the iron in place, and the solder will flow and fuse the joint together. I actually used to do this for a living at one time, and worked on speakers at a manufacturer and later on worked on circuit boards back when there were manufacturing jobs in the US.

For putting in the track nails, I highly recommend a brad punch. These are easily found at a woodworkers tool store, and have an end inside which works like a hammer. Instead of hammering in the track nails, you put the track nail inside the end of the punch, and with the nail sticking out, you push down on the handle and the track nail punches into the plywood. It saves banged fingers and damaged track as it requires very little pressure to put the track nails in.

John
 
Soldering track will melt @ 6 ties, so it takes much practice, and requires melted tie replacement, by slipping them in by hand, and manually custom spiking with several long 3/4" track nails staggered on both sides of the soldered rails to bring them back into gauge, just deep enough so that the wheel flanges don't hit the track nail heads
 
Back
Top