Looking For Suggestions For Mile Post Numbers On Hotbox Detectors

I heard that faulty equipment detectors or hotbox detectors are placed every 20 miles, so I have done just that. I use the Detectors from JR. As for the mile number, how should I go about that. I have a 60 mile line in progress from a larger main yard (main terminal) to a smaller yard in a town (objective terminal). Seeing as how I'm using a fictional Class 1 railroad, how do I go about numbering the detectors? Or should I just pick a number and go by 20's? I'll take any advice out there and weigh it all out. Thanks.
 
I am not sure on that. I guess you should figure out where you want the section of the fictional railroad you are building to be placed on the network and go from there. An example would be do you want the first MP on the route to be 1 or 100 for example. I don't know if you intent to expand the route in the future or not. If I was going to I would probably start with MP 1 and then go from there. I would then update the route's mile posts when needed.
 
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For my real route, Medicine Hat, I put my HB detectors as per this list, it may give you some idea: https://www.traingeek.ca/wp/trains/class-1-railways/cp-alberta/brooks/

Thanks Chris. I'll look into it. So you're route is good to go then? All clear on the DLS? Did you use Google Earth for maps? I heard that Google Earth is good for tracing where the tracks go in a line. I plan to eventually do that with a CN route.

I heard that it takes 2.5 baseboards to make a mile. I suppose I could put a marker every 5 miles (12.5 baseboards) or so. Just a thought.
 
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I am not sure on that. I guess you should figure out where you want the section of the fictional railroad you are building to be placed on the network and go from there. An example would be do you want the first MP on the route to be 1 or 100 for example. I don't know if you intent to expand the route in the future or not. If I was going to I would probably start with MP 1 and then go from there. I would then update the route's mile posts when needed.

I hear ya. I'm looking into it and seeing what I can come up with. Suggestions from others are still welcome.
 
Thanks Chris. I'll look into it. So you're route is good to go then? All clear on the DLS? Did you use Google Earth for maps? I heard that Google Earth is good for tracing where the tracks go in a line. I plan to eventually do that with a CN route.

I heard that it takes 2.5 baseboards to make a mile. I suppose I could put a marker every 5 miles (12.5 baseboards) or so. Just a thought.

I used Transderm which is bit of a bugger to learn, but once you do it puts in the track and makes the hills for you. I created a HOW TO for transderm as after I finally figured it out someone else asked me how to do it so I did up a write up with pics.

My route keeps getting tweaked and such, plus I have to do some test runs to make sure my industries are running correctly and then I want to create sessions in different seasons, I am always disappointed with routes with no sessions. But majority is finished...FINALLY!

Transderm will allow you to set the scale too, so you could make your route HO scale which would reduce the size of the boards, my Moosonee route was real scale and was 250km long, massive work and then it died trying to get it from TS12 to TANE.

If you are interested in TD I created a HOW TO in simple terms for someone in 2014 that would give you an idea of what it is about, but I cannot post it online, it is too big but I can email it.
 
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I used Transderm which is bit of a bugger to learn, but once you do it puts in the track and makes the hills for you. I created a HOW TO for transderm as after I finally figured it out someone else asked me how to do it so I did up a write up with pics.

My route keeps getting tweaked and such, plus I have to do some test runs to make sure my industries are running correctly and then I want to create sessions in different seasons, I am always disappointed with routes with no sessions. But majority is finished...FINALLY!

Transderm will allow you to set the scale too, so you could make your route HO scale which would reduce the size of the boards, my Moosonee route was real scale and was 250km long, massive work and then it died trying to get it from TS12 to TANE.

You should do a small video series on YouTube about it by using Bandicam. Some Trainzers are doing it. I'll eventually do it. The foothills route I'm working on goes from Leavitt AB to Coaldale AB (about 70 miles NE) and also from Coaldale to Del Bonita. But I'm just winging it with the seeing how things should look on the route. Am looking at pictures and videos of those areas, but the people can always change the names of the towns if they want. Some fictional villages in there as well. Placing various portals along the way. Doing several tests as I go through the route, piece by piece. Still quite a long ways to go yet.
 
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If you are interested in TD I created a HOW TO in simple terms for someone in 2014 that would give you an idea of what it is about, but I cannot post it online, it is too big but I can email it.

I would like to read this. I have sent you a PM.
 
Chris, you said "Moosonee route was real scale and was 250km long, massive work and then it died trying to get it from TS12 to TANE." How did the route die when being transferred to T:ANE?
Any tips and warnings on that? My current route is going to be around 200 miles - maybe 300 miles in various directions. Sure, you can send me the item you suggested. I'll pm you my e-mail.
 
Chris, you said "Moosonee route was real scale and was 250km long, massive work and then it died trying to get it from TS12 to TANE." How did the route die when being transferred to T:ANE?
Any tips and warnings on that? My current route is going to be around 200 miles - maybe 300 miles in various directions. Sure, you can send me the item you suggested. I'll pm you my e-mail.

If the route died while being imported then there's a file size issue. Ensure that the route its self is well under the 1GB file size. I find that 500 MB is a good size.

This may mean trimming out superfluous baseboards and knocking down trees, removing objects, etc. from places way out and away from the route. There's no reason to build where no one is going to see it as that eats up space and makes the route bigger than it should be. Modeling mountainous regions does present a problem, though, because you don't want to lose a side of a mountain while trimming boards so you need to look from the ground and trim accordingly.

Cut the route up in sections, though painful a process it is, and import the different sections and merge them in within T:ANE. This seems to work quite well with TS12 as well.
 
If the route died while being imported then there's a file size issue. Ensure that the route its self is well under the 1GB file size. I find that 500 MB is a good size.

This may mean trimming out superfluous baseboards and knocking down trees, removing objects, etc. from places way out and away from the route. There's no reason to build where no one is going to see it as that eats up space and makes the route bigger than it should be. Modeling mountainous regions does present a problem, though, because you don't want to lose a side of a mountain while trimming boards so you need to look from the ground and trim accordingly.

Cut the route up in sections, though painful a process it is, and import the different sections and merge them in within T:ANE. This seems to work quite well with TS12 as well.

Thanks John. I hear you loud and clear. I'll check what BB's to trim. As for breaking the route up, in a way it would be better to break the route into parts (Route Pt, Route Pt2 etc) and upload to T:ANE that way? Then I could merge all of the parts?
 
If the route died while being imported then there's a file size issue. Ensure that the route its self is well under the 1GB file size. I find that 500 MB is a good size.

This may mean trimming out superfluous baseboards and knocking down trees, removing objects, etc. from places way out and away from the route. There's no reason to build where no one is going to see it as that eats up space and makes the route bigger than it should be. Modeling mountainous regions does present a problem, though, because you don't want to lose a side of a mountain while trimming boards so you need to look from the ground and trim accordingly.

Cut the route up in sections, though painful a process it is, and import the different sections and merge them in within T:ANE. This seems to work quite well with TS12 as well.

Hey John, no I just meant that too much stuff had to be converted over, it was almost like starting from scratch. Mostly houses and trees, might be better now as this was when TANE first came out. I still have the route and may try again once MH is done.
 
Hey John, no I just meant that too much stuff had to be converted over, it was almost like starting from scratch. Mostly houses and trees, might be better now as this was when TANE first came out. I still have the route and may try again once MH is done.

Ok, we'll how about I do the entire route but not worry about the buildings and trees until after I transfer it over to T:ANE?
 
Are you building in TS12 or TANE? Moosonee was built in TS12 originally. It looked fantastic when dropped into TANE, but stuff was missing as I said.
 
What I did with mine- because im working on so many lines- is I have the lines w/ their respective miles- but im adding a decimal to distinguish which line. - So when I hear the hotbox say 30.3 I know its my 2nd e-w line (I did evens for north south) at mm 30- near state line - and i use female voice for the first boxes in from the portals and male voices for the inner-area hotbox detectors.

I heard that faulty equipment detectors or hotbox detectors are placed every 20 miles, so I have done just that. I use the Detectors from JR. As for the mile number, how should I go about that. I have a 60 mile line in progress from a larger main yard (main terminal) to a smaller yard in a town (objective terminal). Seeing as how I'm using a fictional Class 1 railroad, how do I go about numbering the detectors? Or should I just pick a number and go by 20's? I'll take any advice out there and weigh it all out. Thanks.
 
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