Is the boiler pressure bug from TS12 still here in this new engine? I start on the C&O route and normally within seconds the boiler pressure is at around 244psi and it's hissing something fierce. I've tried SHIFT+N to no avail. Is this STILL broken? I really want to drive the steam locos, but I cannot take the hiss. At one point my boiler pressure was over 350psi! Can I blow the engine in half? That would be very amusing...
Boiler pressure still messed up?
- Thread starter Xenithar
- Start date
If you tell us which loco this is happening to someone might be able to help. Also tell us what build you are using it in because the e-specs have been changed frequently.
Bill69
ZecMurphy
Community Assistant
Hi Xenithar
This will depend on the physics of the locomotive. Some steam locomotives may be configured to have full boiler pressure at startup, so as to allow the player to immediately start driving. This may, however, result in the safety valves lifting shortly after the start of the session.
One thing that may help, depending on the locomotive, is to open the regulator a small amount with the brakes on. This will put some pressure into the cylinders, but may rapidly reduce the boiler pressure. On other locos this may not help, depending on the starting boiler pressure.
If the safety valves do lift, you can help this by using the injector to put some water into the boiler to help bring the pressure back down. But this is a bit of a balancing act.
For the built-in C&O Kanawha (which uses the enginespec from the NKP Berkshire), the fire temperature can cause some accumulation to occur (i.e. boiler pressure rising even with the safety valves blowing off), and if you aren't careful it can continue to rise. Make sure you aren't adding more coal if you don't require it.
Regards
This will depend on the physics of the locomotive. Some steam locomotives may be configured to have full boiler pressure at startup, so as to allow the player to immediately start driving. This may, however, result in the safety valves lifting shortly after the start of the session.
One thing that may help, depending on the locomotive, is to open the regulator a small amount with the brakes on. This will put some pressure into the cylinders, but may rapidly reduce the boiler pressure. On other locos this may not help, depending on the starting boiler pressure.
If the safety valves do lift, you can help this by using the injector to put some water into the boiler to help bring the pressure back down. But this is a bit of a balancing act.
For the built-in C&O Kanawha (which uses the enginespec from the NKP Berkshire), the fire temperature can cause some accumulation to occur (i.e. boiler pressure rising even with the safety valves blowing off), and if you aren't careful it can continue to rise. Make sure you aren't adding more coal if you don't require it.
Regards
I've been contemplating making a similar post but wasn't sure where. I've been driving the VR DD's in Healseville the last few days and while they're fairly responsive I don't feel like I have much if any control over the water level, boiler pressure or brake pressure. I don't use any keyboard short cuts, I only control the valves, cutoff and brakes from in the cab directly with the mouse.
For example there's a wheel valve and two lever valves for the injector (duplicated for Fireman), the wheel valve makes the injector slider go up and down same as the keybinds would but doesn't seem to have an effect on the injectors and water continuously drops. if I also adjust the lever valves it will start to climb till it reaches 100 at which point it's always 100 no matter what I do. Regardless as long as it's non-zero I don't see any real effect on steam pressure. About the only impact is getting dangerously close to running out of water on one of the sessions.
I tend to drive at 20-30 cutoff except starting and climbing at which point it's higher up to 75%. Pressure floats around 120-140 PSI but sometimes it goes crazy and will bounce between 150 and 300 at which point the safeties are popping, once I saw it spike to over 800 PSI. I was mildly disappointed that didn't result in bits of DD scattered across the country side.
On the brakes I can't really trust the pressure gauges at all. If I apply till there's a 15 PSI drop and then lap them I either get no brakes or it steadily climbs to 60 PSI and my attempt to drop the train from 35 to 20 results in it emergency stopping. So I just do it by feel and timing. I've gotten relatively adept at dropping speed without stopping the train at both full speed and switching/shunting work.
Lastly it's not clear what if any effect the compressor valve or the blower controls have, they seem to be animations. I guess add to that the firebox door. I love that it's animated but does open vs closed effect fire heat and pressure ? <space> is the only key control I use to add coal but I always manually close the door after adding coal. I too tend to sit around 60-70% coal.
I've refrained from posting because I'm new and wasn't sure if it was just me, or if this was normal for T:ANE or these engines or what but I've seen a lot of posts, particularly by Zec with detailed info implying there's a lot more fine grained control than what I experience so maybe I'm missing something. I do like the engines,, one of my favorite eras.
Here's a video I made real quick showing some of the issues. I show the 100% water even though the injector is closed (or appears to be closed). I accelerate up to speed and then use the brakes. Two sort of mouse slip abortive attempts but at the 2 minute mark I try to lap them at 10 PSI and nothing happens, I then try again and it climbs to 57 brake PSI and the train stops.
Apologies, I somehow veered off of boiler issues and onto brake issues.
For example there's a wheel valve and two lever valves for the injector (duplicated for Fireman), the wheel valve makes the injector slider go up and down same as the keybinds would but doesn't seem to have an effect on the injectors and water continuously drops. if I also adjust the lever valves it will start to climb till it reaches 100 at which point it's always 100 no matter what I do. Regardless as long as it's non-zero I don't see any real effect on steam pressure. About the only impact is getting dangerously close to running out of water on one of the sessions.
I tend to drive at 20-30 cutoff except starting and climbing at which point it's higher up to 75%. Pressure floats around 120-140 PSI but sometimes it goes crazy and will bounce between 150 and 300 at which point the safeties are popping, once I saw it spike to over 800 PSI. I was mildly disappointed that didn't result in bits of DD scattered across the country side.
On the brakes I can't really trust the pressure gauges at all. If I apply till there's a 15 PSI drop and then lap them I either get no brakes or it steadily climbs to 60 PSI and my attempt to drop the train from 35 to 20 results in it emergency stopping. So I just do it by feel and timing. I've gotten relatively adept at dropping speed without stopping the train at both full speed and switching/shunting work.
Lastly it's not clear what if any effect the compressor valve or the blower controls have, they seem to be animations. I guess add to that the firebox door. I love that it's animated but does open vs closed effect fire heat and pressure ? <space> is the only key control I use to add coal but I always manually close the door after adding coal. I too tend to sit around 60-70% coal.
I've refrained from posting because I'm new and wasn't sure if it was just me, or if this was normal for T:ANE or these engines or what but I've seen a lot of posts, particularly by Zec with detailed info implying there's a lot more fine grained control than what I experience so maybe I'm missing something. I do like the engines,, one of my favorite eras.
Here's a video I made real quick showing some of the issues. I show the 100% water even though the injector is closed (or appears to be closed). I accelerate up to speed and then use the brakes. Two sort of mouse slip abortive attempts but at the 2 minute mark I try to lap them at 10 PSI and nothing happens, I then try again and it climbs to 57 brake PSI and the train stops.
Apologies, I somehow veered off of boiler issues and onto brake issues.
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I am concerned about locomotives - driven in realistic mode - where nothing, absolutely nothing will change the boiler pressure. Get to the end of the route and it shows 10 lbs per sq inch pressure. Nothing, Shift N, pausing with 0% cutoff, fiddling with coal and water, will change the lowering boiler pressure on some locos. Poor design, methinks.
Phil, that doesn't sound correct to me. Coming from a railroading background (in the family, N&W) you normally adjust the regulator down a bit when running to conserve steam. Like changing gears in a car. 75 is first gear and 10 may be your top gear (fifth or sixth, or tenth if you own a new F150 or a big-rig). 75 gives lots of power and consumes more steam. 10 would consume little steam but would not pull a hill worth a darn.
Maybe I am looking at this wrong. Are you suggesting that in Trainz, in order to keep the boiler pressure under control, you MUST run at full regulator? I admit I haven't tried that because it is wrong, but if it is how you fix it, it should also point the devs to something causing the engines to produce WAY too much steam.
Maybe I am looking at this wrong. Are you suggesting that in Trainz, in order to keep the boiler pressure under control, you MUST run at full regulator? I admit I haven't tried that because it is wrong, but if it is how you fix it, it should also point the devs to something causing the engines to produce WAY too much steam.
I just tried the empty coal cars session with the 2-8-4. I had no control over coal or water for some unknown reason. I switched to realistic mode, full regulator and throttle, brakes released, and the thing wouldn't even move. Something seems broken with the steam locos right now. I couldn't even spin the wheels on the loco with or without sanding on.
Full throttle, full regulator, breaks released, and nothing
Full throttle, full regulator, breaks released, and nothing
http://www.trainzclassics.co.uk/guides_tips/files/Driving_the_9F.pdf
Always worth a read, I can see a mention of 100% here.
Someone with hands-on experience of steam with pop in soon
Hopefully....
Always worth a read, I can see a mention of 100% here.
Someone with hands-on experience of steam with pop in soon
Hopefully....2995Valliant
Well-known member
The physics work - they could be better, and there could be a lot more features (damper, draincocks...I know, I've said it before) added in. Brakes could be much better too.
The problem is that much of the conventional wisdom on how you write an enginespec is, put politely, incorrect. There are problems with controls not functioning correctly in some cabs I have come across, but that's a content creation issue rather than a physics issue.
@Xenithar, if it's a session you can edit, try deleting and replacing the loco (or try putting it in a new session) - as problems can occur after an enginespec update. Driving on full reg would and using the cutoff to control power output was common practice with express locos in the UK. It doesn't work well with smaller wheeled locos as it results in a lot of shuttling. In theory a wide open reg will increase the velocity of steam up the blast pipe thus increasing the draw on the fire.
When coasting in Trainz, close the reg almost completely (you'd always leave it open a bit to prevent drawing a vacuum in the cylinders*, and to draw some oil through) and bring the cutoff down to about 10% - it will stop the fire drawing.
A well designed enginespec should have a safety valve flow rate adequate to cope with the highest rate of steam generation achievable by the boiler, just as per the prototype.
I have a number of specs for UK locos on the DLS. Anything with TS12 SP1 in the description will function okay in T:ANE as well - NB there was a change in the physics with SP1 so the TC3 ones do not perform well in later versions.
The most recent (generally with a :14 suffix and uploaded since December 2017) have some tweaks to the boiler performance which have largely overcome the problem of the boiler cooling too quickly when standing at station stops. The rest of the older ones will be upgraded as and when I have the time, or more likely when I need that loco for a session.
* Unless snifting valves are fitted.
The problem is that much of the conventional wisdom on how you write an enginespec is, put politely, incorrect. There are problems with controls not functioning correctly in some cabs I have come across, but that's a content creation issue rather than a physics issue.
@Xenithar, if it's a session you can edit, try deleting and replacing the loco (or try putting it in a new session) - as problems can occur after an enginespec update. Driving on full reg would and using the cutoff to control power output was common practice with express locos in the UK. It doesn't work well with smaller wheeled locos as it results in a lot of shuttling. In theory a wide open reg will increase the velocity of steam up the blast pipe thus increasing the draw on the fire.
When coasting in Trainz, close the reg almost completely (you'd always leave it open a bit to prevent drawing a vacuum in the cylinders*, and to draw some oil through) and bring the cutoff down to about 10% - it will stop the fire drawing.
A well designed enginespec should have a safety valve flow rate adequate to cope with the highest rate of steam generation achievable by the boiler, just as per the prototype.
I have a number of specs for UK locos on the DLS. Anything with TS12 SP1 in the description will function okay in T:ANE as well - NB there was a change in the physics with SP1 so the TC3 ones do not perform well in later versions.
The most recent (generally with a :14 suffix and uploaded since December 2017) have some tweaks to the boiler performance which have largely overcome the problem of the boiler cooling too quickly when standing at station stops. The rest of the older ones will be upgraded as and when I have the time, or more likely when I need that loco for a session.
* Unless snifting valves are fitted.
Guys --
Just try this session, Post #40 in this thread:
https://forums.auran.com/trainz/sho...-Mann-Phrom-Laramee-quot-model-railroad/page3
You will need to download the Cab Forward. Use the Dropbox link. It uses one of my e-specs from the Download Station.
You have to haul a 1,000 ton train up grades of up to 2.5%. Drive it correctly in Cab Mode - full regulator / control speed with cut-off. You may have to close the regulator at times to avoid over speeding.
Do a couple of laps if you want to. You should be able to maintain good boiler pressure. The popping noise (like an air compressor) are the safety releasing steam. I've tried to overcome this but I've been unsuccessful. It's one of the "features" of Trainz. But you will find it far, far less annoying than any of the other steam e-specs.
For those who try this session, could you report your experiences back here, please. It might stop some of the moaning!~!
Phil
Just try this session, Post #40 in this thread:
https://forums.auran.com/trainz/sho...-Mann-Phrom-Laramee-quot-model-railroad/page3
You will need to download the Cab Forward. Use the Dropbox link. It uses one of my e-specs from the Download Station.
You have to haul a 1,000 ton train up grades of up to 2.5%. Drive it correctly in Cab Mode - full regulator / control speed with cut-off. You may have to close the regulator at times to avoid over speeding.
Do a couple of laps if you want to. You should be able to maintain good boiler pressure. The popping noise (like an air compressor) are the safety releasing steam. I've tried to overcome this but I've been unsuccessful. It's one of the "features" of Trainz. But you will find it far, far less annoying than any of the other steam e-specs.
For those who try this session, could you report your experiences back here, please. It might stop some of the moaning!~!
Phil
2995Valliant
Well-known member
Phil, it's not one of the features of Trainz - it is generally a symptom of Billegulla's spreadsheet though.
With the greatest respect to you, the numbers in that enginespec are utter nonsense and can in no way (other than by happy accident) provide an accurate simulation of driving an AC-12 or anything else.
With the greatest respect to you, the numbers in that enginespec are utter nonsense and can in no way (other than by happy accident) provide an accurate simulation of driving an AC-12 or anything else.
Hi Valliant --
" ... the numbers in that enginespec are utter nonsense and can in no way (other than by happy accident) provide an accurate simulation of driving an AC-12 or anything else."
I agree with you. Entirely. Absolutely. It was based on Bill's original work. Then amended by trial and error. So it is entirely by accident that it may, or may not, represent any steam locomotive. But, and this is the BIG but, for those of us who want to drive in Cab Mode it will provide a pleasurable experience. Boiler pressure can be maintained if the locomotive is driven correctly; the performance in terms of hauling power may be approximately correct; that infernal din from the safety valves popping is much reduced; ... .
What I sincerely hope is that someone, and of all the people I know you are possible the best qualified, will take this whole issue by the horns, give it a good shake and come up with something better. Something that is both accurate and provides us amateurs with a good driving experience.
Phil
" ... the numbers in that enginespec are utter nonsense and can in no way (other than by happy accident) provide an accurate simulation of driving an AC-12 or anything else."
I agree with you. Entirely. Absolutely. It was based on Bill's original work. Then amended by trial and error. So it is entirely by accident that it may, or may not, represent any steam locomotive. But, and this is the BIG but, for those of us who want to drive in Cab Mode it will provide a pleasurable experience. Boiler pressure can be maintained if the locomotive is driven correctly; the performance in terms of hauling power may be approximately correct; that infernal din from the safety valves popping is much reduced; ... .
What I sincerely hope is that someone, and of all the people I know you are possible the best qualified, will take this whole issue by the horns, give it a good shake and come up with something better. Something that is both accurate and provides us amateurs with a good driving experience.
Phil
I'm by no means informed for either RL engines or Trainz, probably a bit more the former ...
I just tried the C&O empties session. I hadn't run it before. Couple of initial observations: the engine feels a bit more correct to me than the VR DD engines. Getting started is not easy. If you open the regulator and cutoff to full you won't go anywhere. It's not really modeled but I assume the wheels are slipping badly at that point. I suspect it looks a bit like this (go to 1 minute 45 second mark): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eb8uWexXQyM (pains me to watch a stuck regulator like that, poor poor engine)
I managed to start out giving it very little regulator with full cutoff and some sand. I have no clue whether the sand helps or if it's just an animation. It took gentle opening of the regulator but eventually got it up to 37mph. I then played around with lapping the brakes and it behaved roughly like I thought it should, took a while with what I suspect were about 50% brakes. I then started off again. Personally I think something like 50% cutoff and minimum regulator when starting are about right for that engine with so much weight behind it. When I worked back up to speed (after 7 minute mark) I played around with ignoring the actual cutoff and regulator numbers and just tried to listen to the engine and dial it in that way. That seemed to work ok. I'd need to play with it quite a bit more to get a better mental image of it's power curve for both regulator and cutoff.
Here's a video of that run, not sure why the upload is crap resolution, I'll reload a 1080p version after dinner.
One trick that works for the VR DDs if I just wanted to go 1mph is to set the brakes, open the cutoff and throttle, fill the steam chest, close both, open brakes and then just open the cutoff. It's just enough steam to get it rolling.
I just tried the C&O empties session. I hadn't run it before. Couple of initial observations: the engine feels a bit more correct to me than the VR DD engines. Getting started is not easy. If you open the regulator and cutoff to full you won't go anywhere. It's not really modeled but I assume the wheels are slipping badly at that point. I suspect it looks a bit like this (go to 1 minute 45 second mark): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eb8uWexXQyM (pains me to watch a stuck regulator like that, poor poor engine)
I managed to start out giving it very little regulator with full cutoff and some sand. I have no clue whether the sand helps or if it's just an animation. It took gentle opening of the regulator but eventually got it up to 37mph. I then played around with lapping the brakes and it behaved roughly like I thought it should, took a while with what I suspect were about 50% brakes. I then started off again. Personally I think something like 50% cutoff and minimum regulator when starting are about right for that engine with so much weight behind it. When I worked back up to speed (after 7 minute mark) I played around with ignoring the actual cutoff and regulator numbers and just tried to listen to the engine and dial it in that way. That seemed to work ok. I'd need to play with it quite a bit more to get a better mental image of it's power curve for both regulator and cutoff.
Here's a video of that run, not sure why the upload is crap resolution, I'll reload a 1080p version after dinner.
One trick that works for the VR DDs if I just wanted to go 1mph is to set the brakes, open the cutoff and throttle, fill the steam chest, close both, open brakes and then just open the cutoff. It's just enough steam to get it rolling.
ZecMurphy
Community Assistant
Hi Belthize
The following controls work in the DDs (and all others are operable for 'fun' ):
Regulator
Cut-off
#4 brake (i.e. train brake)
Handbrake (i.e. independent brake)
Both injectors (the wheel handle, the other 'levers' aren't functional) - the two injectors operate independently. IIRC the enginespec is setup that when working hard, you may need both injectors on from time to time.
Blower
Whistle
Sander
Firebox door (may or may not effect fire temperature, not sure these days).
Brake pressure gauge
Main reservoir Gauge
Boiler Pressure
Both water gauges
All other controls are made pose-able for fun, and in hopes that one day they may be able to be used.
With a steam locomotive, the cut-off is much like the gears in a car. 75% is like 1st, and then reducing the cut-off is like going up through the gears. So make sure you start with high cut-off and then work it back. Try to reduce the cut-off in small steps (so for example, go 75% - 60% - 50% - 40% - 30%) as you increase speed. The steam chest pressure can help a little here, it will drop off if the cut-off is too high. Additionally the cut-off on the HUD will flash yellow if it is too high (and causing the draft to pull the too hard on the fire).
If the locomotive doesn't move when starting off, check the HUD. If the regulator value flashes yellow, this indicates wheelslip (unfortunately the animation/sound doesn't work, it stopped sometime around TS2009 ).
If the water level shows 100% on the HUD, then this indicates that the water has reached the top of the gauge on the boiler (there are two on the DDs, both work and should be accurate). The water level can go above this quite a bit, as there is a lot of space between the top of them and the top of the boiler (as per the real one). It can also go below this before you have the fusible plug melt (Trainz does model this, you will lose boiler pressure when you go too far beyond 0% water - on the DDs I also included smoke effects for this!). If at 100%, putting more water in won't show any change. Also, if the water is too high (i.e. 100% or above as a guide), you have reduced the volume of steam in the boiler; this can be seen in your video as the boiler pressure rapidly drops and then starts jumping up and down. Try having about 70%
For the brakes, on long trains there is a delay as the reduction propogates along the train. The 'equalizer' gives you the actual pressure you've reduced to, you can then see the delay in the train pipe equalizing with this. So when you drop 5PSI out of the equalizer (i.e. the train brake), the train pipe reading will read that drop at the locomotive, but even then it could take a few seconds before the rear of the train sees that change fully (the HUD doesn't show this, it reads from the locomotive as it would on the real thing). You can, however, get a feel for this by watching the brake cylinder reading on the HUD, as this gives you a good indication of the amount of braking force being applied by the locomotive and along the train. On the VR stock, you generally want to make at least a 10PSI reduction for very gentle braking (i.e. reduce to about 63-62PSI in the equalizer/train pipe), or a 15+PSI reduction for heavier braking (i.e. about 60-55PSI). Essentially you can use the three together to see how the brakes are reacting.
Regards
Zec
The following controls work in the DDs (and all others are operable for 'fun'
):Regulator
Cut-off
#4 brake (i.e. train brake)
Handbrake (i.e. independent brake)
Both injectors (the wheel handle, the other 'levers' aren't functional) - the two injectors operate independently. IIRC the enginespec is setup that when working hard, you may need both injectors on from time to time.
Blower
Whistle
Sander
Firebox door (may or may not effect fire temperature, not sure these days).
Brake pressure gauge
Main reservoir Gauge
Boiler Pressure
Both water gauges
All other controls are made pose-able for fun, and in hopes that one day they may be able to be used.
With a steam locomotive, the cut-off is much like the gears in a car. 75% is like 1st, and then reducing the cut-off is like going up through the gears. So make sure you start with high cut-off and then work it back. Try to reduce the cut-off in small steps (so for example, go 75% - 60% - 50% - 40% - 30%) as you increase speed. The steam chest pressure can help a little here, it will drop off if the cut-off is too high. Additionally the cut-off on the HUD will flash yellow if it is too high (and causing the draft to pull the too hard on the fire).
If the locomotive doesn't move when starting off, check the HUD. If the regulator value flashes yellow, this indicates wheelslip (unfortunately the animation/sound doesn't work, it stopped sometime around TS2009
).If the water level shows 100% on the HUD, then this indicates that the water has reached the top of the gauge on the boiler (there are two on the DDs, both work and should be accurate). The water level can go above this quite a bit, as there is a lot of space between the top of them and the top of the boiler (as per the real one). It can also go below this before you have the fusible plug melt (Trainz does model this, you will lose boiler pressure when you go too far beyond 0% water - on the DDs I also included smoke effects for this!). If at 100%, putting more water in won't show any change. Also, if the water is too high (i.e. 100% or above as a guide), you have reduced the volume of steam in the boiler; this can be seen in your video as the boiler pressure rapidly drops and then starts jumping up and down. Try having about 70%
For the brakes, on long trains there is a delay as the reduction propogates along the train. The 'equalizer' gives you the actual pressure you've reduced to, you can then see the delay in the train pipe equalizing with this. So when you drop 5PSI out of the equalizer (i.e. the train brake), the train pipe reading will read that drop at the locomotive, but even then it could take a few seconds before the rear of the train sees that change fully (the HUD doesn't show this, it reads from the locomotive as it would on the real thing). You can, however, get a feel for this by watching the brake cylinder reading on the HUD, as this gives you a good indication of the amount of braking force being applied by the locomotive and along the train. On the VR stock, you generally want to make at least a 10PSI reduction for very gentle braking (i.e. reduce to about 63-62PSI in the equalizer/train pipe), or a 15+PSI reduction for heavier braking (i.e. about 60-55PSI). Essentially you can use the three together to see how the brakes are reacting.
Regards
Zec
Thanks for the information as to which aspects on the VR DD's are modeled, particularly the injectors. On the brake issue, I posted a video of the VR DD braking on the first page. I can't get the application, lapping process to work. Trying to apply 15 PSI either results in nothing or a steady climb to full brakes. Possibly it works better with keyboard controls but it seems like something is not right with them. I end up ignoring the actual pressure readings and just go by timing and speedometer.
BTW, my comments are not meant as a detraction from the DD's, I really like them.
BTW, my comments are not meant as a detraction from the DD's, I really like them.
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Hi,
Going off topic here....
Regarding the brakes, I'm the one who set them up, the brakes are set up following the driver instruction books known as *V/Line Brake Book of Instructions March 1989*, I'm going to be talking metric here, all brake pipe pressures are 500 kpa when charged with a 150 kpa reduction to fully apply the brakes resulting in a 315 to 350 kpa brake cylinder, however the axres tank and train brake pipe still take a few more minutes to charge up, so if you do a 75-100 kpa reduction one-two minute after charging the brakes will not be effective as they didn't have time to charge, the flow rates are set up for cab controls to make it easier to control the reduction rates, in real life the #4 brake valve has slow reduction and quick reduction however trainz does not model this so I put the rates in between on the physics.
Now, if the reduction is a little too quick for the trainz controls I can slow them a little more, however this will need to be done to every single physic so the rates match every loco.
As to locomotives boilers I like to set the initial between 75 and 80% boiler pressure, so if the boiler is 175 PSI then 75% is 130 PSI.
Cheers.
Going off topic here....
Regarding the brakes, I'm the one who set them up, the brakes are set up following the driver instruction books known as *V/Line Brake Book of Instructions March 1989*, I'm going to be talking metric here, all brake pipe pressures are 500 kpa when charged with a 150 kpa reduction to fully apply the brakes resulting in a 315 to 350 kpa brake cylinder, however the axres tank and train brake pipe still take a few more minutes to charge up, so if you do a 75-100 kpa reduction one-two minute after charging the brakes will not be effective as they didn't have time to charge, the flow rates are set up for cab controls to make it easier to control the reduction rates, in real life the #4 brake valve has slow reduction and quick reduction however trainz does not model this so I put the rates in between on the physics.
Now, if the reduction is a little too quick for the trainz controls I can slow them a little more, however this will need to be done to every single physic so the rates match every loco.
As to locomotives boilers I like to set the initial between 75 and 80% boiler pressure, so if the boiler is 175 PSI then 75% is 130 PSI.
Cheers.
@Azervich, thanks for the info. For my part the issue isn't the reduction rate, that part seems fine. Possibly I don't understand how the brakes are supposed to work but starting with released brakes and a equalizer pressure of 71PSI, if I apply the brakes for 7PSI reduction and then lap them I'd hope for a light brake, useful when switching. In game it just results in 0PSI brake cylinder pressure. If I increase the reduction to 11PSI (60 PSI equalizer pressure) the brake cylinder pressure rises to 45. The video below shows that except I stopped recording at 33PSI, I grabbed some coffee and it was up to 45 when I got back.
The upshot is it's very hard to switch with these engines. What I'd like to do is come through the yard a 8 to 10 MPH and begin braking lightly about .2miles out (apologies for imperial units). In practice I end up braking heavily, stop the train and then slowly creep forward at 4mph.
So the problem isn't the application rate, they're one of the easier to deal with manually from my perspective, it's how equalizer reduction maps to brake application, it feels like all or nothing. The only difference I see is the rate at which the brake cylinder climbs, the larger the equalizer reduction the faster it fills but the braking pressure feels the same.
I probably need to do some brake timing tests on level terrain, 'feel' is awfully subjective.
Edit: We've pretty much de-railed Xenithar's thread so possibly this discussion should be elsewhere unless he doesn't object.
The upshot is it's very hard to switch with these engines. What I'd like to do is come through the yard a 8 to 10 MPH and begin braking lightly about .2miles out (apologies for imperial units). In practice I end up braking heavily, stop the train and then slowly creep forward at 4mph.
So the problem isn't the application rate, they're one of the easier to deal with manually from my perspective, it's how equalizer reduction maps to brake application, it feels like all or nothing. The only difference I see is the rate at which the brake cylinder climbs, the larger the equalizer reduction the faster it fills but the braking pressure feels the same.
I probably need to do some brake timing tests on level terrain, 'feel' is awfully subjective.
Edit: We've pretty much de-railed Xenithar's thread so possibly this discussion should be elsewhere unless he doesn't object.
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