Layout Update

[tbob]

Howdy Folks,

I've been reading your comments and suggestions from my first thread and have worked upon them. The main thing is that I've added two sidings for storing freight and they've helped me save so much room for my other equipment.
I've also got one of the brand new Athearn Bomb. Bilevel cabs that I've been waiting months for.

So, here's some quick update pics:

Here's some pictures of my Deere stuff too:

Videos on the Way!!!

-Jesse D.-:wave:

 

[tbob]

Here's two videos for you guys...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OHuWw4F4Rg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eP3FthtCbYc

 

[Spawn_of_Chaos97]

Y'know, I'm not sure if I posted this in your original thread, but good choice of track for your first layout! Bachmann's EZ-Track is a great place to start because it's easy to keep together even if you don't nail it down. You've got one up on me though because you got the nickel silver track whereas I got the steel alloy (was short on $$$ at the time).

Nice vids too!

 

[tbob]

Thanks, the nickle silver stuff was costly, but then again it was a b-day present

 

[RooRocz]

Some (hopefully) constructive criticism:

1. Do you have a master plan of any sort? You won't get very far without a plan.

2. Bachmann E-Z track is good for beginners and people who want to set up trains temporarily on a carpet. For a serious model railroad? No. Get some Atlas, Peco, or Walthers track. Kato Unitrack is also nice, but is kinda expensive.

3. You need some operating potential here. I'd suggest the following: An interchange track with another RR (could be anything), some industries (I'd suggest a cement plant, the Faller one is very good, although I think IHC makes one from the same molds for $7.00 but needs some painting), and a runaround track, at minimum.

That's all I can think of at the moment. If you think you don't have enough space, look at the micro layouts page.

 

[tbob]

Well thanks for the suggestions, but I don't really plan on getting too serious with it. It's just something I tinker with in my free time. Plus for me to get the supplies I'd need for a pro look to it, well, that's money I could be putting towards a vehicle, and right now I'm trying to save up for a used Ford Ranger (Thank god they're cheap ). Plus it took some creativity to cram all that on a 4' x 8' board, and I'm making this my own thing, so I really wanna stay away from books. At the moment I'm pretty happy with what I have and it's way better than the O-Guage oval I started off with. Thanks anyway Roo.:wave:

 

[Jimmyp4]

First of all
[Qoute]right now I'm trying to save up for a used Ford Ranger (Thank god they're cheap ). [qoute]
Since when have rangers been cheap!? We own one (2005) and it cost us a heap!

Your doing great, but you Should have a plan. I didn't and now I'm stuck!

If you haven't nailed or glued anything down take the stuff off and but a sheet of drywall foam under there. It works great and you can cut it so the yard is lower then the mainline. Make shure you buy the solid foam and not that kind made of small balls of foam glued together.

Trust me this works much better (unless you get that junk foam made of balls, trashed THAT layout), which reminds me, I needto take everythin off for foam.

 

[tbob]

First of all
[Qoute]right now I'm trying to save up for a used Ford Ranger (Thank god they're cheap ). [qoute]
Since when have rangers been cheap!? We own one (2005) and it cost us a heap!

Your doing great, but you Should have a plan. I didn't and now I'm stuck!

If you haven't nailed or glued anything down take the stuff off and but a sheet of drywall foam under there. It works great and you can cut it so the yard is lower then the mainline. Make shure you buy the solid foam and not that kind made of small balls of foam glued together.

Trust me this works much better (unless you get that junk foam made of balls, trashed THAT layout), which reminds me, I needto take everythin off for foam.

Well the Rangers are cheap around here, I've seen 'em go for $500 an the highest maybe $5k.

The first thing I really gotta do before messing with track bed or anything, is get a slightly larger board, because at the moment, the track is hanging off the edges slightly.

 

[Jimmyp4]

Get a 4x8 should hold you for awhile. If that is a 4x8, just get the foam, it can go over he wood by a little bit.

 

[RooRocz]

Well thanks for the suggestions, but I don't really plan on getting too serious with it. It's just something I tinker with in my free time. Plus for me to get the supplies I'd need for a pro look to it, well, that's money I could be putting towards a vehicle, and right now I'm trying to save up for a used Ford Ranger

Just 'cause it's a hobby doesn't mean you shouldn't do it right. Getting a pro to look at it is unnecessary and contrary to the spirit of model railroading for the most part. (look at John Allen; he was almost entirely self-taught)
Also, it is a popular myth that model railroading is expensive. If you do it right, it costs next to nothing. I'd look at 2guyzandsumtrains.com (there's instructions there for building a working turntable for under $50)for good advice on modeling stingily, and look at local train shows for good deals. The NMRA convention is in Hartford in 2009 (I'll be there!), so you'll definitely get some good deals by that time.

Of course my model railroad isn't even built yet, I'm just tinkering with modules...